Lips and lashes are so easily transformed by makeup, instantly. Beauty brands are keeping makeup fans entertained with new types of lip color, in an assortment of unusual finishes—along with mascara that features innovative brush applicators for better performance.
Recent launches in lip color range from super shiny finishes in metallic and holographic hues, to long-wearing, non-drying matte formulations, which are trending. Formulas on the market include butter-soft lipstick bullets, lip oils in tubes, tinted balms and plumping gloss.
“Glitter is huge in lip color, along with rich, bold colors,” says Julie Saltzman, director of marketing, Berlin Packaging. “While there has been a resurgence of matte finishes, high gloss is huge. Kylie Cosmetics has a high gloss line,” she adds. Lip color with a higher level of gloss will work best with an applicator that has less flocking, and often without a doe foot shape, Saltzman advises.
Beauty fans are expected to continue to love lip color, as forecasters predict the global lipstick market will reach $8.7 billion by 2021. A report from Euromonitor International says that the lip product market in the U.S. has an “unmet potential” of nearly $1 billion, and lip products in the U.S. are expected to gain $881 million by 2022.
In mascara, fashionistas seem to have moved on from the clumpy look of doll-like lashes, and now seek a more natural, soft “fringe.” The top three beauty questions consumers asked Google in 2018 weren’t about mascara—but they were about eyelashes. They included references to magnetic lashes, lash lifts, and faux lashes. On Pinterest, however, the No.1 beauty product “pinned and searched” the most in 2018 was Lancôme’s Monsieur Big Waterproof Mascara.
Analysts say the global market for mascara is projected to grow with a CAGR of 6.7% to reach $10.3 billion by 2023, according to the Global Mascara Market Research Report. Volumizing mascara is expected to show the most growth, reaching a market value of more than $4 billion, globally. Waterproof formulas also appear to be in high demand, and are expected to grow at a rate of 6.82% during the forecast period.
Popular in Lip Color
High gloss may be popular, but the matte lip color trend is here to stay. Fenty Beauty just launched its Mattemoiselle Plush Matte Lipstick in 10 new shades. Marc Jacobs, however, is now betting on bringing back another retro look for lips—frosted finishes. The brand’s new Le Marc Lip Frost Lipstick has a chic leopard print package.
Formulas that are part lip balm, part gloss, are also extremely popular. “More brands are focusing on lipstick with moisturizing properties,” says Philip Cho, country manager, SamHwa USA. “Multifunctional products that provide color and hydration are in demand, and many of these formulas require an airtight package,” he explains.
SamHwa’s airtight lipstick package features a patented double sealing technique designed to keep a formula’s moisture level intact, with minimal weight loss. “Our unique package and seal will maximize the longevity of a formulation,” adds Cho.
Bobbi Brown just launched Crushed Lip, which includes superfruit extracts. It combines the comfort of a balm with the look of a shiny gloss, the brand states. Another innovative high-shine balm is Yves Saint Laurent’s Volupté Plump-in-Color Plumping Lip Balm. It’s the brand’s first hybrid formula, and features a “plumping black heart core.” The outer shell of the lipstick delivers the color and luminous shine, while the heart-shaped center of the lipstick is a nourishing, plumping balm. Tom Pecheux, the brand’s global beauty director, says the black heart is “a little punk,” and he was inspired by Mr. Yves Saint Laurent’s favorite heart motif used in numerous fashion collections and on his infamous ‘love cards.’
Since mascara is so dependent upon its brush, it’s no surprise that several of the most memorable launches throughout the past year include innovative brushes. Chanel’s Le Volume Révolution de Chanel, launched last June, features the industry’s first 3D-printed mascara brush. Modeled after a honeycomb, the brush features micro-reservoirs to facilitate optimum absorption and delivery of the formula.
Beauty editors have been buzzing about Peripera Long Lash Curling Ink Black Cara mascara, which recently won an Allure Korea Best of Beauty Award. Available at CVS stores in the U.S., the packaging’s underwhelming look seems to be key to its performance. The wand is shorter than most, and the brush has stubby bristles. Reviews say this design makes it easy to reach every tiny eyelash, for a clump-free application.
The most unusual new mascara has to be Immaculash 360, which features a dual-wand applicator that can be used together or individually. The larger brush is volumizing, while the smaller detail brush is designed to use near the inner corners, on the lower lashes, and for separation. The bottle features an inner airtight seal, which keeps the formula fresh, the brand says.
Suppliers Talk Trends
Mascara may be succeeding in attracting attention with new types of brushes, but suppliers say it is lipstick’s “moment to shine.” Fran Cardiff, senior vice president of sales, Axilone USA, says, “Lipstick is so popular on social media right now—and look at the way it is often presented,” she says, comparing its packaging to a work of art. She mentions Pat McGrath’s lipstick case that features sculptural gold lips, MILK x WuTang’s eye-catching design, and Estee Lauder’s Pure Color Envy.
Anthony Heraud, vice president of project development, Axilone USA, agrees, saying, “The packaging is the focus, especially for lipstick—it provides a visual for that ‘Instagram-able moment.’ For this reason, brands are requesting more complex decorations on packaging.” Cardiff adds, “Indie brands are pushing the classic brands to respond, in terms of design. They are all looking to define the ‘It’ factor—this is how glitter became a big trend.”
Magnetic features will always give a lipstick package a luxe feel. “We can’t say enough about a lipstick that ‘clicks’ closed with a magnet,” says Cardiff. She continues, “And when the case is weighted, too, it changes the entire experience of using the product. It makes it feel much more glamorous.”
Robert Congionti, vice president of operations, Tokiwa Cosmetics America, says lipstick trends are always evolving. “Lipstick is one of the most fascinating cosmetic categories because formulas that provide new textures and benefits are always in development.”
Axilone’s Heraud agrees, adding, “We’re seeing a lot of softer, very volatile formulas in lipstick.” Sometimes they require an airtight seal, or the mechanism and cup are redesigned to support a softer bullet. There are ongoing challenges and compatibilty testing, as new types of formulations are developed.” (SamHwa’s new airtight lipstick package is mentioned above.)
In terms of decorating, Berlin Packaging’s Saltzman says brands are using a variety of techniques on both lipstick and mascara packaging. “We see hot-stamping, anodized metallization, debossing and embossing,” she says.
In mascara, Saltzman sees the most demand for volumizing formulas “Voluminous lashes are a big trend, in line with the increasing use of faux lashes,” she explains. “Beauty brands are also requesting more 2-in-1 packages for mascara and lash treatment products,” she adds.
For brushes, suppliers say mascara is best applied with applicators in classic shapes—and the unusual brush designs that have attracted attention in recent months might just be a passing fad. “I keep seeing mascara applicators being made in outrageous shapes. These designs might inspire consumers to try the product once, but probably won’t succeed in attracting repeat buyers,” says Chris Tarling, founder, MIXCreative.
Beauty brands should remain true to classic application techniques for mascara because they work, Tarling advises. “Existing technologies like wire and molded brushes are here to stay. Twist wire brushes are classic, but there was a big switch to plastic brushes a few years ago. The next trend is going to be hybrid applicators for mascara,” he says.
Overall, suppliers say they are partnering with brands to bring to market makeup—and packaging—that will surprise the user. “Sensoriality is key,” says Charlotte Wastyn, eye color cosmetics marketing manager, Albéa. Wastyn explains, “Consumers need new experiences to be surprised, so we are developing eye-catching and original products, featuring sensorial packaging and formulas with interesting textures. New textures enhance sensoriality, such as foam and powders.”
Allta’s Powder Lipstick Palette
We’ve seen a variety of different types of lip color rise in popularity in recent months, including oils and balms—now, get set for Lip Powder.
Allta International has developed a Lip Powder Palette. “Rub your finger on the powder color, as well as on the clear gloss, and mix to apply. The palette also includes a white powder to blend with different colors to create a custom shade,” explains David G. Berkman, president & CEO, Allta International. “Depending on how much gloss or white is mixed in, the color will change,” he adds.
Berkman says brands are looking for different finishes for lip color. The supplier specializes in innovation, and Berkman says: “We strive to develop products that aren’t on the market yet.”
One popular—and useful—design element for lipstick is color-matching, for shade identification. “Shade identification is definitely a trend in lipstick packaging,” says Axilone’s Cardiff, mentioning Bobbi Brown’s Crushed Lip, described above, as an example. She explains, “Bobbi Brown’s ‘Crushed’ features an A-shell and collar color-matched to the lip color. Clinique’s Lip Pop got the ball rolling on this trend a couple of years ago.”
This design feature makes it easy for consumers while shopping, but may often cause a few challenges for packaging teams and suppliers. “Technically, these design elements often pose some issues,” says Axilone’s Heraud. A package must be engineered correctly, and the decoration must be chosen carefully—or it won’t look luxurious,” Heraud says. “We develop different methods to achieve a luxe look, specific to each individual design and the look a brand hopes to achieve,” he adds.
Metal’s Moment to Shine
Metal has a glamorous appeal, especially for lipstick. Lou Della Pesca, president, 3C Inc., says, “A metal lipstick always looks and feels luxurious. The look is enhanced by the decoration and design on the finished surface. When decorated in a custom color, a lipstick case will coordinate with other cosmetic products in the line.”
It is often cost-prohibitive for a brand to pay for tooling for a custom-designed lip color package, but suppliers such as 3C offer solutions—and when made in metal, they look ultra-glamorous.
“We have made a large selection of metal lipstick cases available to our customers from stock molds, in many different designs. They are a luxe alternative to the basic stock options, in standard sizes. Our large assortment of designs and finishes for each case gives more brands access to luxe lipstick packages.”
Axilone’s Cardiff often hears requests for square metal cases. “We have worked on a number of collaborations recently that required a simple design, such as a square metal case,” she says. Many brands are looking for a lipstick case with a surface that is easy to work with and adaptable to different design concepts,” she explains.
Axilone also offers a variety of cases in metal, many of which are offered as stock designs. “They can be easily customized,” Cardiff says. Shown here is one in gold, decorated with a sparkling glitter decoration.
Guerlain relaunched its glamorous Rouge G lipstick last spring, in heavyweight metal. Designed by jeweler Lorenz Baumer, the iconic lipstick was first sold in 2009 when the brand called it “the first luxury jewel lipstick with two mirrors.” Now, there are 15 new case designs and 30 newly reformulated, highly pigmented lipstick colors. The case doubles as the lipstick’s cap. It flips open lengthwise to reveal two large mirrors. Flip down the mirror to slip the cap into the bullet’s base. The luxurious cap is available in a range of decorative finishes and fabrics, and can be refilled with any color lipstick bullet to create a custom package.
More New Designs for Lip Color
Some suppliers have developed new types of packaging for lip color, inspired by new types of formulations. CTK Cosmetics is offering several new options.
CTK’s One Drop Lipstick is a playful package that features a push button, which retracts a lipstick bullet back into its housing. “After applying, push the button and the lipstick will drop safely back into the body—just push and let it drop,” says Jackie Paterno, vice president, CTK Cosmetics. The design prevents the bullet from breaking, or having excess lipstick in the cap because it was not fully twisted down, Paterno explains.
CTK Cosmetics offers Flip Lip, the supplier’s new line of innovative packaging for lip gloss. “It has a flip opening cap feature, inspired by a Zippo lighter. This fun feature creates a new twist for lip gloss packaging,” says Paterno.
SamHwa offers a new package designed to create a new experience in lip color, for formulations with new textures—the Jelly Jar. It features a silicone tip applicator. “The jelly tip is soft enough to touch your lip, but isn’t as easily contaminated as a brush tip. It is easy to clean, and feels like jelly,” says SamHwa’s Cho. The supplier also has a new Slim Button Lipstick. “It is efficient, and will help prevent smudging,” says Cho.
Consider a Tube for Lip Color and Mascara
A plastic squeeze tube, which can be paired with an applicator tip or a separate wand applicator, is ideal for some types of lip gloss, liquid lipstick, and lip oil products. Tubes are sometimes chosen for mascara as well.
Albéa offers tubes in various sizes, paired with different types of applicators, for both lip gloss and mascara.
Viva IML Tubes supplies tube packaging for both lip color and mascara products. “A lip gloss tube, with a rod-applicator, is currently a ‘hot’ product,” says Darryl Laing, business development director, Viva IML Tubes. “We offer a multitude of different applicator shapes, styles and textures that allow the brand to precisely customize the user experience.
Traditionally, tubes with a 19mm diameter and affixed or rod-applicators, are popular for lip gloss and mascara. Some beauty brands have requested a thinner format, so we have also introduced a 16mm diameter tube with all the same features,” Laing explains.
Decorating these smaller tubes, utilizing various techniques, is becoming a trend, Bruno Lebeault, marketing director, Viva IML Tubes says, “Brands are increasingly asking for the same level of decoration on our lip gloss and mascara tubes as on our larger tubes for personal care products. They were often neglected in the past, in terms of decoration,” says Lebault.
Viva IML’s unique decorating capability can incorporate a clear window within a metallic foil, or even a holographic foil tube. “This is particularly popular with a brand that offers a range of shades to display,” Laing says. The supplier offers a variety of tube decorating processes, and has recently installed a new sputtering line to also offer in-house metallizing on its closures and accessories.
Expect to see more personalization, suppliers say, as well as smaller pack sizes.
“The biggest on-going trend is personalization,” says Berlin Packaging’s Saltzman. “Whether it’s customizing with your name, or choosing a color, the Millennial market doesn’t want something ‘mass.’ There are many Indie brands that are providing new ways to customize packaging, and this is a trend that will continue,” Saltzman adds.
Albéa’s Wastyn agrees, and says, “Personalization is the biggest trend in beauty. It comes through customization and digitalization—and will impact both products and retail stores.”
Smaller, travel-friendly packaging is also here to stay. “Consumers want convenience,” says Wastyn. “Convenience is key—new gestures, on-the-go packaging and travel sizes are being developed to facilitate storage and usage.”
Saltzman agrees, saying, “Smaller sizes are exploding. We continue to see lots of interest, especially for travel-sized lipstick, lip gloss, and mascara—they are in huge demand.”
In terms of applicators, for both mascara and lip color, MIXCreative’s Tarling says new designs may be on the horizon. He says, “Packaging designers are looking at dental and facial brushes for inspiration.”
Designing for older consumers is another trend on the horizon. Wastyn says, “Makeup applicators that are ergonomically designed for seniors are currently in development.”