And it’s precisely this obsession with cosmetics and appearance that’s made the MakeUp In events so successful, according to Sandra Maguarian, co-manager of the show. “With millennials,” she said, “it’s all about makeup… all day long, with selfies and photos to promote themselves.” She added: “Makeup is bigger than ever—just like this edition of MakeUp in Paris.”
On June 21, the start of Day 2 of the 8th edition of MakeUp in Paris (MUP), which took place at the Carrousel de Louvre, Maguarian told Beauty Packaging: “There’s such a positive energy. The show has been a great success, the best one ever despite the possible hot weather challenge.” In fact, she said exhibitors had requested an additional day—which Maguarian said is a great statement about the quality of the event. “But it’s better to have a two-day concentration,” she said, adding “a lot of visitors come to this show because they know exhibitors will be launching their innovations, as they present new collections in June.”
The number of visitors reached a record number, with nearly 4,000 attending during the two days; more than 1,200 were from outside France, with 60 countries represented.
Exhibitors at Makeup in Paris, which this year topped 160 in number, were 70% full service and formulation; 20% packaging; and 10% “other.” Maguarian emphasized that a lot of marketing people attend because they’re interested in the final product. With a growing influence of packaging, this year MUP presented a new focus on cartonboard, with five packaging manufacturers participating.
Maguarian explained: “Cartons protect cosmetics; the trend is to use more cartons to communicate with consumers, so a carton innovation space was created.” There was also an increased emphasis on glass this year, with a selection of glass manufacturers presenting options for fragrance, cosmetics and skincare. Two full days of conferences and an expanded “digital section” rounded out the MakeUp in Paris experience.
A Focus on Color
Many of the attendees and exhibitors at the show shared the feeling that color cosmetics have become the dominant focus of the beauty world, again giving much of the credit to the rise of perceived appearances on social media, from modest looks to outrageous statements.
Anne Flon, senior manager, trends & prospective, Innovation Makeup, Coty, who was visiting the show, told Beauty Packaging: “Makeup is a phenomenon. Makeup is booming. It gives women confidence and allows them to express themselves.”
A number of exhibitors echoed these sentiments, saying the trend has influenced everything from ingredients to applicators. Several suppliers at the show told Beauty Packaging that makeup had become the “new skincare,” and this is where they are shifting much of their attention. The phenomenon has also created a move toward full-service for quick turnaround, low MOQs and ease of production cycles.
Cosmogen’s Isabel Lawson said: “Despite the multitude of cosmetics used for selfies, the ultimate effect is often a no-makeup look. The trend is for natural-looking makeup—and silicone applicators are very good for that,” alluding to the flexible clear puff applicator being presented at their stand (see more about this applicator later in this article).
Companies formerly known more for skincare are putting increased emphasis on Color Cosmetics—such as Virospack and Englewood Lab.
Rosa Porras of Virospack, which offers a multitude of packaging solutions for skin care, said, “We’re now focusing a lot on makeup, as skincare is evening out.” She said they’re also looking at foundation, “as Color is booming”—for concealers, primers and blush, as well as foundation. “Makeup can go to another level,” says Porras. With the rise in stature, packaging for cosmetics has also become more important, with an increasingly luxe look in some cases. Porras said, “We’re focusing on textures and deco—soft-touch glass as a deco process, a coating.”
Known for their quality skincare formulations, Patricia Antonelli, director of sales, Englewood Lab, told Beauty Packaging they’re adding more color cosmetics to the corporate portfolio. They’ve also opened a new manufacturing facility in Totowa NJ, to supplement the one in nearby Englewood. In addition, she said, a separate beauty packaging company that sources packaging from Korea and China, makes Englewood Lab an excellent option for full service needs.
On the Ball
At MakeUp in Paris, Englewood Lab presented a number of interesting products, some of which Antonelli referred to as “transformative”—starting in one form and morphing into another upon usage. Starch ball cleansers in various pastel shades made a splash on the counter. To use: Crush the bead in your hand and add water for an instant cleanser or exfoliator. A clay mask transforms via its color; when rubbed into skin, it goes from blue to yellow. When it turns yellow, leave it on for 10 minutes and then rinse off. A jelly soap maintains its shape, but will melt down with use—and is good for face or body.
Multi-color beads showed through packages for products from lipgloss to hair care at Haasbel Group, a cosmetics solution provider based in Barcelona. The company specializes in sphere-active filling technology, which has been available for 20 years. Blush spheres are available in pearl or pressed powder format—and can be used for formulations for lips, hair, skin- care and hair care. Microspheres and hyaluronic acid add up to innovative and improved hydration.
Another transformation was evidenced at Crystal Moda, based in Italy. The company specializes only in formulations. Dario Moretti, CEO, pointed out their Color Perfection Pigment: When mixed with your foundation, it can change the color of your skin, for example, making it more beige or more pink. As with a number of exhibitors, Crystal Moda also showed “bouncy” formulations. However, Crystal Moda’s strength is in baked and wet powder, with back inside technology. They can create different shapes and designs.
Sheen Color Biotech, from China, offered both transformative and bouncy jelly formulas with good payoffs, as well as full service options, from formulas to packaging. The company representative at the booth told Beauty Packaging “Cream-to powder formulas are trendy right now.”
Next-Evolution Compacts & Foundation Formulations
Cushion compacts have undoubtedly revolutionized the foundation sphere, and the evolution of the handy, convenient, no-mess, take-along package continues with new componentry, dispensing systems and applicator sponges—and of course, deco advances that will make any cosmetics bag proud.
HCT Group’s Airless division provides airless compacts with a cutting-edge dispensing system that keeps formulas protected because they only release the exact amount of product needed for application. Product that is not being used remains in the reservoir, shielded from oxygen, heat and bacteria. This system allows the compact to maintain a high-level of hygiene, which is especially beneficial for any products that are to be applied to the skin.
At MakeUp in Paris, HCT Group also focused on four of their foundation formulations—all which could be paired with their airless compact. For instance, the Foundation & Concealer Concentrate is a two-in-one formula designed to conceal imperfections and blemishes for an instant touch-up with its long-wearing finish. Also transitional in nature, its rich yet soft texture envelops the skin during application while turning into a weightless powdery film that creates a full coverage look with color camouflage performance. Another HCT formulation, Skin Is In Foundation, is a lightweight foundation that blurs imperfections, absorbs oil and blends seamlessly for a no-makeup look.
At Taiki, the focus was not on the compact itself, but rather on the foam cushion, the Taiki Capacity Cushion. Zoé Chai, sales manager, said the “innovative and better foam—can be impregnated with the formula.”
Taiki says its three unique components— T-Engine Sponge (exclusive patent-pending sponge material), Effusion Cushion Compact (slim, airtight and refillable) and Applicator Puff (hi-Cellbian and antibacterial material) work together to create a better-performing system.
Featured launches at Hana Innovation included a compact with a pump hidden in the hinge, which injects a serum into the powder for a moisturizing effect at the moment of use. Hana also showed a Dual Airless dispenser, useful when a brand wants to fill two different products separately. The pump can dispense the products with the same ratio. Various deco options are available.
At Libo, compact and palette decoration was top-tier, as three-color metallized compacts shone in the display case. The supplier also recently developed Magnum Match in three sizes; a magnetized palette that features different size combinations of inserts, so it can be fully customized, for daytime or night-on-the-town needs. Different deco effects created looks including a rainbow effect—such as the one on the floral-shaped compact shown in the photo. Libo also offers a “diamond” injection molding process for a dimensional effect.
Plastic compacts took on a luxurious look at Marino Belotti, based in Italy. Sales representative Renata Canevali showed Beauty Packaging a number of finishes and product families made to house powders, all with outstanding decorative embellishments, from bright to matte finishes. From their most basic black plastic compacts with multiple deco options to white plastic with hot stamping, and different inserts available, results are striking. Plastic compacts with resin labels allow for a wide range of deco possibilities. “You can decorate the complete surface,” explained Canevali, “so we can reproduce anything you want, even a photograph; or we can match the color of the product inside.” The company doesn’t rely on metallization for shine, but instead, uses a galvanic electroplating process which attaches metallic particles on the plastic for a luxe look and feel.
Two-for-one products have been continually gaining momentum for their functionality and ease of use, and a selection of exhibitors at MUP were showing their latest developments in this area.
Rick Persons, president, Derik Industrial USA, said that the popularity of these products is consumer driven. He told Beauty Packaging: “One of the biggest areas we’re working on is dual-function, especially due to ease-of-use.” Derik has now commercialized a version for brows, with a firm brush on one end and a crayon on the other. There’s a cap on both ends. The supplier has taken this theme and developed it in various sizes for different functions including foundation, blush and highlighter.
Alkos also offered a number of dual-ended products, especially for eyes. Alkos Light & Shadow pencil, for instance, is a versatile 2-in-1 dual-ended pencil. Its slim eyeliner end outlines eyes with precision to intensify the look, while its jumbo eyeshadow end delivers an array of luminous colors of various finishes, such as pearly or iridescent. Allison Kieffer, communication-marketing, at Alkos, says the dual-ended pencils are very difficult to accomplish as there are two different textures and two different formulas. While Alkos offers a number of brow products, and is now working on a soft powdery look for brows, Kieffer says, “People are more interested in lips and eyes now.”
Kieffer also showed Beauty Packaging a number of other products—including some “transformative” items, such as a liquid-like pastel-to-gel collection “with great payoffs from the first glide.” A bouncy mask in a jar returns to its normal shape after being “dipped.”
What’s hot at the moment? Kieffer said metal effects with the same great payoff: “Everyone’s crazy about these.” Another trend: A lot of customers are asking for “free from formulas” so one product Alkos now offers is the Nano Free Ultra Black Eyeliner, a water-resistant mascara that keeps lashes subtle.
Alkos won a spot on MUP’s Innovation Tree for its Tattoo Lip Contour. Taking the precise lines even further, Alkos’ sharpenable fragrance pencil is now available as a liner perfume—a colored version for scented tattoos that are long-lasting, cute gimmicks—and great for social sharing. The Tattoo Lip Contour lip stain features a pencil-like tip and an easy grip to draw precise lines and neat contours.
Tattoo effects were also highlighted at other exhibitors at the show, with everything from very precise tips to stick-on designs.
Geka’s new “orienTALE” Collection was designed as a cross between Oriental culture and Fairy Tale, explained Julia Kiener, marketing manager. Packaging for the four pieces has a distinct tattoo look with elaborate decorative details in cool blue and turquoise tones, warmed with velvety red and earthy terracotta. Contrasting textures with ornaments and astrological symbols have been reinterpreted for a dreamy visual effect. The set highlights liquid color cosmetics—all which can be produced turnkey. Dual-end liquid eye shadows and a dual-end brow product are included. The collection can be packed in a shiny turquoise cosmetic pouch made of PU leather. Gold body tattoos and crystal stones for the eyes are included to complete the Persian-inspired look.
From brushes to sponges to silicone, the focus is on smooth, precise, seamless application.
Cosmogen offered packaging for skincare on one side of their booth, and makeup on the other. One feature was a new range of brushes with antibacterial fibers—all of which can be customized per the brand’s desires. A new flexible, clear “puff” for foundation requires very little product as it “stretches” the formulation. The transparency feature allows the consumer to see precisely how the product is being spread. Vey hygienic, just wash it, and it dries instantly. Also interesting was a vegan, bamboo brush set, with five brushes and a pouch.
Cosmogen’s Attract One Expert and Tear Drop Brush set were both voted onto the MakeUp in Paris Innovation Tree. Attract One Expert offers a full care ritual, from the controlled release of the formula to its targeted application, thanks to its 12mm removable ball that can be heated or chilled—and easily cleaned.
Lipsticks, from stick to liquid were well-represented at MakeUp in Paris.
Lumson, known for luxurious skin-care packaging was highlighting its recent purchase of Leoplast, experts in the development and production of standard and custom lipsticks. At MakeUp in Paris, they were offering a new lipstick line 100% Made in Italy. The wide range of products is available in different materials and finishes, with customization by innovative decoration technologies.
Reboul, represented in the U.S. by Coverpla, specializes in metal and plastic components for luxe cosmetics. Anne-Cecile Monet told Beauty Packaging they can produce 20 million pieces per machine per year, and they have three “very high-tech machines.” Monet said they can stamp, polish, anodize—and guarantee zero defects. And she added that there’s no glue and no silicone used so it’s easy to recycle the aluminum. Reboul is working on new formats and new technology for mechanisms now under patent, said Monet. La Perlite Collection, which was beautifully displayed, highlighted the innovation on the finishing, which Monet said is 3X more resistant than standard anodizing.
At Porex, Rusty Martin, global marketing director, told Beauty Packaging that the company had changed the writing instrument from quill to sharpie style form—and aims to do the same with efforts to evolve and expand cosmetic applicators—from nibs in pens to nibs in cosmetic applicators. Nubiform is the company’s latest material offered for even application, and effective for use in compacts to foam tips—for products from lipstick to fragrance. The new elastomer material, with anti-microbial properties, can be molded into 3D shapes and has flow-through capability—so the shape of a lipstick applicator can even be contoured. Nubiform creates a self-applicator that allows the fluid to evenly disperse across the surface. It can be used for foundation, eyeshadow, lip stain and more viscous fluids.
A one-handed pop-up mascara without a cap drew attention at Jia Hsing Group, from Taiwan. Kim Lee demonstrated the one-handed gesture. Press on the top and it pops up. Press down and it locks.
Multiple stick components suitable for any cosmetic product, including lipstick, lip gloss, tint and concealer were on display at Jeong Hun Co Ltd. Dae Jin Kim showed how to turn the component to control the contents amount. The plastic tip with a hole in the top allows the formula to flow out. It’s also available with a flocked top.
Asking for Masks
Masks continue to expand in popularity, and Tech Nature, a private label skin care brand based in France, offered a large selection of ready-to-go formulas sold mainly in pouches. The company specializes in peel-off masks. Their Leaf Mask is 100% organic; put the mask in hot water like a tea bag then apply to your face.
Mily Makeup, created by makeup artist Mily Serebrenik, was situated at the entrance to the show floor. An extensive collection featured self-adhesive makeup—just peel off the backing and stick on to change your look in an instant. Thick bars and shapes to tattoo styling enable users to quickly—and endlessly—change their looks.
As mentioned earlier in this article, word around the show was the growing demand for accelerating time-to-market launches and suppliers doing all they can to comply.
In this vein, Albéa premiered their Fast Track Beauty Collection, which can be launched globally as a quick turnkey solution. Anne Rutigliano explained that the need for such a collection had been driven by social media and the needs of indie brands. Fast Track Beauty was established to launch 10,000 minimum quantities in just six weeks. There can also be some customization through deco, and Rutigliano said packaging can also be customized with accessories and formulas. Focus is a combination of specifically chosen packs, formulas and applicators, in a stylish square design range, and is “absolutely turnkey”—or available as a packaging-only option. The Focus Collection is the first in this line, and offers a beauty routine with seven steps focused on eyes and brows for a complete look, with a corrector for eye contouring, a concealer and a makeup fixer powder, an eye-shadow range, a four-color compact to draw and structure the brows, a graphic eyeliner and precise applicators for a professional makeup result.
As indie and established brands continue to influence the evolution of the cosmetics world, whether through turnkey services, packaging or social media, we can look forward to more makeup-centric shows.
MakeUp in NewYork (Sept 19-20) will host 100 exhibitors at Center415, 5th Avenue, between 37th and 38th Street, New York, NY.
MakeUp in LosAngeles (Feb 7-8, 2018) will draw 90 exhibitors in February, up from 60 last year, at Barker Hanger, Santa Monica. The show will be co-located with LuxePack Los Angeles.
In addition, watch for: MakeUp in Seoul: 4/25-4/26 2018; and MakeUp in Shanghai co-located with Luxe Pack Shanghai: 4/11-4/12, 2018