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Beautycounter & Ethique Discuss 'Building a Conscious Beauty Brand'

Beautycounter's Gregg Renfrew & Ethique's Brianne West discuss winning CEW's Beauty Award for Sustainability with Firmenich's Juliette Sicot-Crevet.

Motivated By A Need To 'Do Better'

Renfrew discussed the impetus for starting her brand, noting the influence of the film, An Inconvenient Truth, which raised her awareness of the dangers of global warming and the importance of reenergizing the environment. She said she had observed people struggling with cancer and infertility issues, and it became clear where she would place her energies.

“I searched for products that were safe for health for humans and the earth; as well as high-performance and safety,” Renfrew said. She began advocating for a movement for healthy brands.

Brianne West’s motivation was “to do good for the environment, the consumer and the planet,” and said she believed that business is the way to create change. West, who has a science degree, started in her kitchen by testing products on her friends and family.

Moderator, Sicot-Crevet said West’s brand, Ethique, is highly ambitious, with a zero waste, zero plastic goal, and a charity component that gives 20% to charity. “You’re a disruptor,” said Sicot-Crevet. West replied, “The charitable giving is always there, and the idea and philosophy are always there. We always measure against our values. We had a great offer from a retailer who couldn’t manage sales of our products without the use of plastic outer packaging, so we declined.”

Ethical Sourcing

Sicot-Crevet noted Beautycounter’s safety standard and ethical sourcing, to which Renfrew replied, “When we started with our Blueprint for Clean, everyone worked for the same goal, responsibly-sourced materials, 100% ingredient transparency, and sustainable packaging. We brought all of our community into our standards and participated in our democracy. It’s never easy, but it’s what we stand for.”

Looking at supply chain security, Renfrew acknowledged, “We always say we don’t have all the answers, but we bring this transparency with us.” She described the use of mica and how the company decided to physically tackle the issue by examining the mines they work with and how they decided, on a systemic level, to effect change by holding people accountable in the entire process. “By partnering with people on the raw materials side, we hope we can make things better for everyone,” she said.

West discusses Ethique's sourcing process. “We believe everyone involved needs transparency. We approach it by working with suppliers, in harvesting our coconut oil. The pricing is affordable and we want everyone to be fair to everybody,” said West.

Regarding the customer’s expectation in terms of sustainability, West said, “We operate in 21 different countries and people want you to be fair, meaning no greenwashing or scare mongering tactics. Brands shouldn’t be afraid of saying this, that we are working to be transparent and demanding progress.” She explained the need to be more ambitious, rather than saying all packaging must be recyclable by a certain given time.

Renfrew says Covid isn't distracting everyone from environmental issues. “Consumers are focused on sustainability, both pre-Covid and during it. They are more focused on ingredient transparency, authenticity, and making real progress,” said Renfrew, adding, “Your carbon footprint post-Covid is more important than it ever was before.”

Renfrew acknowledged that having safer products with high performance is key for Beautycounter. “If the products don’t work, your customer will leave you. Because we focus on performance, doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice safety or sustainability,” she said. She acknowledged that certain ingredients, like mica, can be more challenging than others, and for some, they have not yet been “able to crack the code,” so they plan to continue working to bring them to market.

West said, “The industry is fraught with challenges and trying to convince people and educating them about something that looks like a bar of soap, for example, and is actually a moisturizer, can be a challenge. So, it goes back to the idea that challenges are constant and ongoing.”

Renfrew agreed, noting that business is always fraught with challenges, and while producing high-performance products, you are also creating a beautiful package, advocating for sustainability, and working for transparency, all while changes are happening. “It is nice to know that you’re being recognized and to know that the future of beauty is clear and sustainable,” said Renfrew.

Future Goals

Regarding sustainability for the future, West noted Ethique’s effort to save ½ billion plastic bottles by the year 2030, and how the company is planting trees, with 200,000 planned by the end of this year.

“For the future, packaging is the most challenging,” she said, noting a recent innovation of a paper bottle coming out, designed for use as a whiskey bottle. “Supply chain is also important, so people are paid and treated well. We need to deal with the inequities in society and bring everyone along.”

Renfrew said that Beautycounter is focused on sustainably producing vanilla, mica, and palm oil, and aim to be completely carbon neutral by 2030. They agreed that creating a sustainable brand demands having a clear purpose and articulating it clearly. “Tell that story and pass it on to your consumer,” said West. Renfrew added, “Sometimes people make a brand promise, but it’s important to make sure you are doing whatever you say you’re doing. The worst is to set goals and not be able to substantiate your claims. The most important, is to be open and honest at all times.”

Collaboration is at the heart of the sustainability movement and educated consumers are getting on board. West said, “By creating a movement with your business, you inspire others to go along with you.”

With Sicot-Crevet moderating from Paris, Brianne West in New Zealand, and Gregg Renfrew responding from Los Angeles, the presentation was a perfect metaphor for the world of possibilities in the sustainability movement.