Marie Redding, Senior Editor02.05.20
Lip color and mascara are two “fun-to-use” products that enable makeup fans to change their look in an instant—as Influencers are eager to demonstrate on social media. Forecasters say the markets for both are projected to grow. While lipstick is always colorful, mascara will be, too, if Cosmopolitan’s Top 12 Makeup Trends for 2020 is correct. We may soon see more brightly colored mascara on lashes, and bright pink on lips.
There’s no shortage of “newness” in both categories, in products and in packaging. One Indie/luxury beauty brand, Westman Atelier, puts a new spin on lip color and mascara with a lip color in a compact, and a mascara that resembles a lipstick package. (Westman Atelier’s luxe mascara is shown above, and both products are described in the sections that follow.)
Lip Color Trends
There’s a wide variety of textures and finishes for lips, including mattes, glosses, stains, oils, and tinted balms. Lipstick bullets often feature fun embossed designs, and brands are expanding lip color ranges.
Taking a look at the latest research, the global lipstick market was valued at $9.2 billion in 2018, and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.6% to reach $13.4 billion by 2024, according to Prescient & Strategic Intelligence. In North America, the lipstick market is projected to rise to $5.1 billion by 2023, according to Research and Markets—and product innovation is fueling growth.
Matte lip color is expected to expand at the fastest CAGR of 7.9% through 2025, according to a report by Grand View Research.
“Matte and semi-matte formulas are still very much on-trend,” says Christelle Godefroit, product manager, HCP Packaging. “This pushes us to offer more wiper options to help with the compatibility of longer lasting formulas,” she says.
Jill Manning, director, product innovation, HCT Group, says, “We see requests for hybrid, skincare/color products that both treat and color the lips.” HCT Group offers a turnkey Lip Lotion that moisturizes and plumps, with a subtle wash of color. “The lotion format is an innovative take on the trend, as many other hybrid formulas fall more in the realm of serums, oils and concentrates,” says Manning.
David Berkman, president/CEO, Allta International, comments on skincare’s influence, saying, “Brands are looking for something more, such as formulations that offer plumping or moisturizing benefits, not to just make lips look pretty.”
Valentina Manera, marketing manager, Brivaplast, says brands often ask about lip color formulations that will stay all day—combined with premium looks for packaging. “Requests are continually increasing for long-lasting lip formulas,” says Manera. Brivaplast offers a range of thick-wall lip gloss packages in PETG, which is the ideal material for these volatile formulas.
“They have a high-end look, to ensure the consumer perceives it as a premium product,” she says. Brivaplast’s Slim Pack is often requested as well. “It has an applicator with a long stem that conveys elegance, while also helping to deliver a high-precision application,” she says.
Sunny Choi, chief marketing officer, CTK Cosmetics, says the trends in lip color differ by region. “In the U.S., glossy and liquid lip products are popular. In Asia, matte lip color is still widely preferred. Due to these differences, we developed packaging that could accommodate various types of formulations,” she says.
CTK Cosmetics offers an Airtight Slim Stick. “It is ideal for soft, high-water-content lipstick formulas, as well the more traditional hard, matte lipstick formulas. This airtight case allows formulation flexibility,” says Choi.
Katarina Koo, overseas marketing/assistant manager, Illupack, says that more liquid types of lip color, such as lip gloss as well as lip oils, are trending. “Brands are also requesting silicone applicators in unique shapes,” says Koo. Illupack offers two new lip gloss packages, and one for lipstick. “The lip gloss packs are bi-injection molded, and include a window so consumers can see the product color inside,” she says. The supplier also offers an airtight lipstick package.
Darren Eade, president of sales, Kemas USA, says, “We see a decline in liquid lip formulas, and a trend back toward traditional lipstick. Ingredients have evolved, so traditional lipstick bullets are much softer.” Eade says softer formulations are driving a demand for airtight packages for lip color. “Airtight packages can be produced in a number of ways to ensure an airtight seal. This requires high cavitation tooling,” Eade says. Kemas has over 30 years of experience in this area, Eade says, so his team is skilled in understanding how to eliminate risk factors to ensure the stability of all types of formulations.
Mascara Market Trends
Mascara has come a long way since the standard three options—curling, volumizing or lengthening formulas. Due to brush innovations, combination formulas can deliver on several different claims, including non-clumping and lash-defining. There are also tubing and fiber mascaras, as well as primers and bottom lash versions.
Research reveals that of all the types of eye makeup, mascara holds the largest market share, at approximately 35%. Analysts say the global eye makeup market size has risen steadily since 2018, when its value was estimated at $14.5 billion. A CAGR of 5.7% is expected through 2025, according to Grand View Research.
What’s driving the demand for mascara? Celebrity endorsements, researchers say. In addition, waterproof mascaras are expected to witness more growth than regular, due to the rise in waterproof formulas that are easy to remove.
Another report by the same company states that the global herbal and organic mascara market size was estimated at $109.4 million in 2018 and is anticipated to register a CAGR of 5.3% through 2025—rising to $156.5 million. The report states, “The rising influence of social media marketing and online beauty influencers on Millennials is projected to bode well for market growth.”
John Kurek, vice president, mascara product marketing, HCP U.S. says he sees many brands, especially Indies, launching mascara with organic, vegan, natural and cruelty-free claims.
These new formulas affect applicator performance, Kurek notes. “Ingredients in formulations are being modified to meet brands’ and customers’ expectations. Packaging suppliers are responding to these changes in core formulation ingredients by modifying conventional applicator development—to ensure a product delivers on its performance claims,” Kurek explains.
Volumizing mascara is most in demand, experts say. “There is a growing demand for volumizing formulas,” says Kurek. “Formulas with fiber additives have been trending, to assist in building volume onto the lash,” he says. “Also, more brands are seeking to launch ‘hero’ mascaras or multi-functional products that offer ‘all-in-one’ performance to provide volume, length, definition and curl.”
HCT’s Manning also mentions volumizing formulas—and the “clean beauty” trend, saying, “Volumizing mascara has been in high-demand and has remained a mainstay in the beauty industry.” She adds, “We receive many requests for formulas that have a high percentage of naturally derived ingredients, and help brands to launch clean formulas that don’t sacrifice performance,” she says.
Bob Congionti, VP of operations, Tokiwa Cosmetics America, says Tubing Mascaras offer exceptional volume, and are popular. “Demand and requests for our film forming or ‘tube’ type mascaras are still very strong and growing in the U.S. markets.,” he says. “In the Asian markets, these are among the most popular and requested versions of mascaras, especially among younger consumers,” he adds.
Two-in-one packages for mascara are also popular, according to Congionti. “Our customers are increasingly requesting new versions of multi-function packaging, such as a mascara on one end and perhaps an eyebrow gel, liquid eyeliner, or tip-on powder on the other end. These components are very sleek in design, very portable and extremely functional,” he adds.
Recent Mascara Launches Are Innovative—and Glamorous
Mascara packaging hasn’t changed much in terms of design, until recently. Westman Atelier’s Eye Love You Mascara, described as “the first luxury clean mascara,” is housed in a chic gold debossed metal cylinder. It has a large cylindrical brush with densely arranged bristles to volumize, define, and curl lashes. The bristles are derived from a plant-based resin of castor plant seeds. The formula is 96% natural.
Angela Piner of AVP Creative worked closely with Westman Atelier’s founder, Gucci Westman, to perfect the synergy between the formulation and custom package. “Mascara is known as one of the most challenging products to develop. The brush, wand, and wiper combination is critical to delivering results— every millimeter counts,” she says. “We went through countless revisions to get to Gucci’s precise performance expectations, which isn’t easy with a clean formulation. It had to be pitch black, reflective, glossy, easy to use—and deliver mile-long lashes in one swipe,” Piner explains.
Talking about its design, Piner adds, “A slight departure of the monochromatic matte exterior of the current sticks, we wanted to introduce contrast with color and finish; the matte black cap and shiny gold cylinder proved worthy of this contrast.”
Too Faced also has a new mascara with a glamorous look—Damn Girl. The team at HCT Group developed this package. “Jerrod Blandino had a very specific vision for Damn Girl, and who its user would be. He was quoted as saying, ‘It’s for the stiletto girls. It’s for the woman taking charge of her life.’ So we wanted to bring this vision to life with a package that embodied this persona,” explains Vivian Maurin, vice president, business development, HCT. “We have been partners with Too Faced for many years, and creating this component for them was an exciting challenge that ultimately captured Jerrod’s direction perfectly.” HCT Group also produces the best-selling Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara.
IT Cosmetics worked with HCP to launch its Lash Blow Out Mascara. The supplier states, “IT Cosmetics created a unique and attention-grabbing custom HCP pack, incorporating an ergonomic handle design for effortless application and control. The design was innovatively created to look like a volumizing hairbrush. The pack is styled in an ultra-modern gray and vibrant yellow combination, with metallic foils contrasting against the matte finish.”
Inspired by the technology used to create barrel hairbrushes, the specially designed fiber brush features HCP’s patented Spider technology—microspheres at the end of each bristle gently grip each lash for root-to-tip application; delivering beautiful separation, instant lift and clean volume.
Fenty Beauty just launched its first mascara, Full Frontal. The “flat-to-fat” brush, described on its website, has one side designed to hold the maximum amount of product, while the other side is able to define and curl each hair.
Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Lash Mascara also features a dual brush, and this is highlighted by the fact that one side is red. The red side is a molded brush, for length and separation, while the other is a bristle brush, for volume and lift.
Maybelline New York, known for years as a leader in mascara with its iconic Great Lash, still tops “best mascara” lists. Maybelline Total Temptation Mascara was a “top lab pick” on Good Housekeeping’s list of 7 Best Mascaras last year. A post at Southern Living is titled, “This Coconut-Scented Mascara Has the Best Brush on the Beauty Aisle,” and described it as lush and full-bristled. A writer at Byrdie proclaims, “Usually, with a brush this size, you forgo separated lashes for thickness and volume. However, there’s some magic happening here because it somehow pulls off both.”
Stand-Out Lip Color Packaging
Lip color typically requires a twist-up case if it’s a lipstick bullet or tinted balm—or tubes and bottles with applicators are the norm for stains, oils, and glosses. Some brands and suppliers are departing from the norm with innovative designs. Westman Atelier just launched an innovative lip color (in addition to its luxe mascara, described above) — Lip Suede Huile De Cerise. Four shades of red are in a red lacquered compact with a mirror.
AVP Creative’s Piner is hearing positive feedback about the unique design, saying, “We knew it was special when anyone who saw the prototypes had the same excitement we had—they were immediately drawn in and asked, ‘what is that?’ Once opened, the color projection is impactful without the visual interruption of pans. This required a unique filling process,” Piner explains.
The clean formulation features a high level of moisturizing cold-pressed cherry oil, which is highlighted in the product name. The colors can be worn individually or blended, and applied with a lip brush or finger. “Creating the right shade of red for the compact was paramount,” says Piner. “It was inspired by a beautiful bright orange red hue Gucci wanted to create in the shade line-up,” she explains.
Allta International is a supplier that offers something new for lip color—a Lip Powder Palette.
“Apply the gloss first, then the colored powder, to create a matte or shiny finish,” says Berkman, president/CEO. “Functionality is driving new designs and formulas for lip color, he adds.
Lipstick bullets are often embossed with a brand’s logo or other designs. MAC Cosmetics recently took this design element to the next level with its limited edition Kiss of Stars Lipstick, in its recent Holiday collection. The glitter-coated lipstick, in its sparkle-coated case, is adorned with practically an entire galaxy of stars.
Winky Lux, which just opened its first flagship store in New York, relaunched its best-selling lip oil with a new name—and a Valentine’s-Day-themed design. Cross My Heart Lip Oil is a high-shine gloss that has tiny pink and red hearts suspended in its clear formula. It contains peptides, plus hydrating avocado, sunflower and jojoba oils.
So Many Options for Lips
Consumers have come to expect a vast selection of colors and finishes for lips—and beauty brands are delivering. One recent launch is L’Oréal Paris Rouge Signature Lip Stain, a lightweight “Matte Colored Ink.” It has a stain-like feel, combined with the color impact of a liquid lipstick. There are 17 new colors, which were recently added to the original 20—for a total of 37 colors in the line. It’s in a clear bottle with a black and gold cap. The precision applicator has a pointed tip.
Clinique recently debuted Even Better Pop Lip Colour Foundation, and it comes in 28 shades designed “to flatter all skin tones and undertones,” the brand says. Clinique’s “Shade Match Science” tool will determine the three most flattering lip colors for your skin tone based on your Even Better foundation shade. “We use an algorithm built on the Golden Ratio, a harmonious proportion that underlies the most beautiful works of art and nature,” Clinique states. There are 168 different color combinations.
It Cosmetics just launched its first lipstick line, Pillow Lips, described as a high-pigment “moisture-wrapping” lipstick. The line debuted with 14 shades, each of which are offered in both cream and matte finishes, for a total of 28 options. The lipstick cap is decorated to resemble a quilted pillow and the bullet is embossed with the brand’s logo.
Urban Decay’s Vice Lipstick, in an updated version of its iconic original lipstick case that looks like a shotgun shell, still ranks first for offering the most color options—135 shades in six finishes. Options are Mega Matte, Comfort Matte, Cream, Metallized, Sheer, and Sheer Shimmer. The faceted gunmetal lipstick case has a gold base and debossed lettering, and it can now be personalized.
A Squeezable Mascara
One new mascara that may soon be a gamechanger is in a squeezable package— LashControl. It has an innovative flexible wiper design called “SqueezeControl.” This feature was invented and patented by Jennifer Paulson-Lee, founder/president of LashControl / U. Control Packaging (UCP).
Now the company has a new partner, Cosmopak. Cosmopak will integrate UCP’s SqueezeControl technology across a line of exclusive packaging designs, making the concept available for other brands to use.
“We believe our collaboration with Cosmopak is a terrific growth opportunity…and is in keeping with our long-term licensing objectives for our patented, trademarked dispensing system,” says Paulson-Lee.
The SqueezeControl sleeve is fun to use, Paulson says, because it is ergonomic and intuitive. Squeeze the flex-wiper sleeve with finger pressure while pulling the brush out. Excess formula is wiped off, and stays inside the tube.
Walter Dwyer, global president, Cosmopak, says, “We are excited to share our new exclusive packaging designs and incorporate this game-changing innovation in the coming months.
Turnkey options will also be available with a range of customization specific to brand image.” Brand-specific options will include a selection of exterior shapes, various brush styles, different component materials and a selection of finishes.
Paulson-Lee says she came up with the idea for a squeezable package while applying her mascara, and scraping off the excess product from the brush onto a tissue. “I thought, there should be a squeeze section on this bottle.”
Squeeze This Lip Gloss
Another innovative package that users can squeeze is Flip Lip, by CTK Cosmetics—and it aims to solve messy lip gloss application issues. “Lip gloss has been around for a long time, but its packaging hasn’t changed much. Traditional designs don’t provide a flawless user experience as the formula builds up around the cap. It is also difficult to pick up residual formula at the bottom of the container with a rod-like applicator,” says CTK’s Choi.
Flip Lip is designed to upgrade the user’s experience. “Flip the cap open, squeeze the middle of the body, and you can easily apply lip gloss without a mess—and with one hand,” says Choi.
“The slanted tip applicator allows for easy application and lip definition,” she continues. “We can also customize the tip shape,” she says. Flip Lip also has a large area to allow for branding and all types of decoration for a custom look.
Designs & Applicator Advancements for Mascara
A mascara product’s performance depends so much on the applicator, and its design.
“Applicators need to have a marketing angle, but remain true to science with both the formula, stem and wiper. Gimmicks, including oversized applicators or crazy designs won’t give brands a repeat purchase,” says Christopher Tarling, founder, MIXCreative.
Tarling says the company worked with its founding partners Sanderson Macleod to create patented multi-brush materials and a patented automation method called Custom Integrated Makeup Applicators (CIMA). Tarling explains, “CIMA allows our clients to create new molded and hybrid brush designs in minutes…we will roll out this new technology in 2020.”
HCT Group’s innovative Twist Wiper Mascara features an adjustable collar, so the width of the wiper can be changed. This allows the user to control the amount of product that is left on the brush, to achieve the desired effect. The supplier also offers the Oval 2-in-1—featuring a mascara and liquid liner in one package, on opposite ends. The polypropylene bottle has a sleek, luxe aluminum overshell.
Another supplier, HCP, offers numerous brush shapes. “Our new Lash Studio and Mascara and Brow Brush Innovation and Development Center provides an interactive and collaborative environment for customers to achieve the perfect application,” says HCP’s Kurek. “The center brings together over 40 years’ of twisted-wire brush making knowledge and expertise, as well as state-of-the-art micro-injection molded brush ingenuity,” he adds.
HCP’s SIMP designs, engineers, and manufactures new molded mascara brush shapes at its facility in Paris, and offers beauty brands three new shapes. The Jalouse plastic brush offers instant volume, curl and length by combining cone and petal-shaped bristles. The Feather Comb has a feather-shaped profile with a tapered tip to reach inner and outer corner lashes, providing separation and lengthening. The Teardrop Twist achieves a lash look with volume, curl and length with a twist formation and a teardrop profile that aligns perfectly with the curvature of the eye. The widely spaced, petal-shaped bristles deliver an even application in one stroke.
Anne-Laure Linage, color cosmetics marketing director, Albéa, says, “For mascara, the shape of a brush depends on where you sell. Asia still focuses on shorter tips, for instance our La Petite mascara brush, whereas in the Middle East you focus on big tips,” she explains. “We recently launched the Fruit collection of plastic mascara brushes—and our Mango brush is one of the biggest on the market, to serve this specific target,” adds Linage.
Albéa recently partnered with Erpro 3D Factory, a leading start-up in 3D technology innovation, to offer fully-personalized cosmetic packaging solutions. “This opens a new universe of designs for applicators, with customization at an industrial scale. Our featured collection is called Desert, with four 3D-printed brushes in bold shapes,” says Linage.
Applicators and Wipers Affect Lip Gloss Performance
Like mascara, applicators and wipers matter for lip color packaging as well—or any type of liquid lip color in a bottle with a brush.
HCP offers a wide range of applicators in different shapes, materials, flock adhesives, flocking length and density. “These factors all play a role in product performance,” says HCP’s Godefriot. “Our team will recommend the optimal specifications to ensure that the best product pick-up and pay-off is achieved. For lip gloss, the functionality of the pack strongly contributes to the success of the product. An expert pairing is essential for an outstanding performance.
While the focus is often on formula and applicator, the wiper is key to the ideal amount of bulk being left on the applicator prior to application.”
HCP offers bi-injected and TPE wipers, as well as wipers made by SIMP in NBR (Nitrile Butadiene Rubber). “Our stock Fusion Sleek Lip Gloss is paired with a bi-injected wiper. It combines the hardness of LDPE for pull force retention, with the softness of TPE for an ideal wiping function,” explains Godefroit.
Bertille Blais, market manager, color cosmetics, lips, Albéa, advises that thin applicators are more precise–and ideal for liquid lipstick and long-lasting formulas. “An applicator with a large, soft surface is ideal for gloss. It can make the application more comfortable and help differentiate the product,” Blais explains. Albéa offers large tips for lip gloss applicators called Exquisite and Sensual. “We are bringing sensation to the application,” says Blais.
Metal Looks Luxe
Metal and metallized finishes give lipstick and mascara packaging a luxe look. Westman Atelier’s glamorous gold mascara is one example, shown above.
Kemas’ Eade says metal and metallized finishes for lip and mascara products are in high demand—especially for luxury brands. “Since opening the doors to our new metal facility, we have been developing some beautiful double and triple anodized metal components,” says Eade.
Kemas recently worked with NARS to produce a black and gold double anodized lipstick as part of its Studio 54 collection. “This collection was impressive, and also included a fully glittered component. It’s exciting to work with brands that are willing to push the envelope in design and offer their customers products and packaging that is new and luxurious.”
Metal can also be a sustainable material, in addition to the other eco-friendly options described below. Libo offers a metal lipstick case that is made with 100% recycled aluminum. It reduces the carbon footprint of the manufacturing process, when compared to virgin material. The case can be decorated using silk-screening or hot-stamping. Libo also offers a new aluminum mascara package, which can be paired with a selection of different types of applicators.
Suppliers Offer Sustainable Options
Sustainability is always an important issue for beauty brands and packaging teams, but it is sometimes more challenging for lip color and mascara. These packages typically include applicators, as well as other parts, often made from different materials. At one time it was nearly impossible for consumers to properly recycle a lip gloss or mascara package, but now there are several options.
HCT Group offers a new Eco Lipstick and Eco Lip Gloss. The patent-pending lipstick package is made from 100% PET. These packages are part of HCT Group’s “Designed for Recycling Initiative.” Adding PCR material is an option for both, for an even more compelling eco-conscious brand story.
Kemas’ Eade says he sees a major move now toward more sustainable and recyclable packaging solutions. “We have been making 100% mono material (PET) lipsticks for over 15 years, and there has never been a demand for them outside of Japan until now. We have had a long time to perfect our mechanisms using these materials, so there is no compromise to the quality and functionality,” he adds.
Kemas offers a patent-pending refillable lipstick that contains a recyclable cartridge and mechanism that is 100% recyclable. “Refillable lipsticks have been around since the 1960s, but the majority of mechanisms designed since then contain magnet fixtures that lock the mechanism into the base,” Eade says. “We came up with a lipstick refill cartridge that doesn’t contain magnets, and won’t allow the consumer to use it unless it is fixed into the base.”
MIXCreative’s Tarling says he often works with brands to develop mascara packaging, using various types of eco-friendly materials. “We use proprietary fibers, renewably sourced materials and PCR. These considerations, for the future, help both brands and consumers lower their environmental impact,” he says, adding, “Formula compatibility and local government regulations must be carefully followed to keep safe products on the shelf as some are not cleared for cosmetics reuse when recycling.”
The team at Brivaplast developed a sustainable line for lip gloss and mascara called “This is My Second Life!” The bottles are made with 100% PETR from recycled water bottles. The ABS caps are made using 50% internal industrial waste. The caps can also be made from wood from a renewable source, using certified PEFC and FSC. Brivaplast’s Manera says, “We used a varnish to decorate the packages that contains 40% renewable ingredients—resins and petrochemical solvents are replaced with resins of vegetable origin and bio-solvents.”
Geka introduced sustainable packaging for mascara and lip gloss last year—the “verTentation” collection. The mascara bottles are 100% food PCR-PET, produced out of post-consumer PET-A bottle scraps. The caps are 100% PCR-PP, made from post-consumer PP scraps, such as yogurt cups and detergent bottles. The LLDPE wiper includes 84% bio-based content, derived from sugar cane. Brushes are made of Geka`s greenLine bio-based fiber, which is 100% renewable raw materials derived from the castor oil plant.
Geka offers this mascara turnkey, in three options, Lengthening, Defintion, and Volume. The ‘clean’ vegan formula doesn’t include, parabens, allergens, or black carbon. The three formulas are paired with mascara brushes.
Blais spoke to us about Albéa’s sustainability initiatives, which includes making changes to ensure its packaging is “recyclable-ready.” Blais says, “We offer lipgloss and mascara packs with up to 100% PCR,” noting that Albéa was the first plastic packaging supplier to sign Ellen MacArthur’s New Plastics Economy Global Commitment.
Blais mentions how confusing it can be, however—for both brands and consumers. She advises, “There are so many ways to approach sustainability, and many different materials. In the end, remember that using recycled materials is key.”
There’s no shortage of “newness” in both categories, in products and in packaging. One Indie/luxury beauty brand, Westman Atelier, puts a new spin on lip color and mascara with a lip color in a compact, and a mascara that resembles a lipstick package. (Westman Atelier’s luxe mascara is shown above, and both products are described in the sections that follow.)
Lip Color Trends
There’s a wide variety of textures and finishes for lips, including mattes, glosses, stains, oils, and tinted balms. Lipstick bullets often feature fun embossed designs, and brands are expanding lip color ranges.
Taking a look at the latest research, the global lipstick market was valued at $9.2 billion in 2018, and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.6% to reach $13.4 billion by 2024, according to Prescient & Strategic Intelligence. In North America, the lipstick market is projected to rise to $5.1 billion by 2023, according to Research and Markets—and product innovation is fueling growth.
Matte lip color is expected to expand at the fastest CAGR of 7.9% through 2025, according to a report by Grand View Research.
“Matte and semi-matte formulas are still very much on-trend,” says Christelle Godefroit, product manager, HCP Packaging. “This pushes us to offer more wiper options to help with the compatibility of longer lasting formulas,” she says.
Jill Manning, director, product innovation, HCT Group, says, “We see requests for hybrid, skincare/color products that both treat and color the lips.” HCT Group offers a turnkey Lip Lotion that moisturizes and plumps, with a subtle wash of color. “The lotion format is an innovative take on the trend, as many other hybrid formulas fall more in the realm of serums, oils and concentrates,” says Manning.
David Berkman, president/CEO, Allta International, comments on skincare’s influence, saying, “Brands are looking for something more, such as formulations that offer plumping or moisturizing benefits, not to just make lips look pretty.”
Valentina Manera, marketing manager, Brivaplast, says brands often ask about lip color formulations that will stay all day—combined with premium looks for packaging. “Requests are continually increasing for long-lasting lip formulas,” says Manera. Brivaplast offers a range of thick-wall lip gloss packages in PETG, which is the ideal material for these volatile formulas.
“They have a high-end look, to ensure the consumer perceives it as a premium product,” she says. Brivaplast’s Slim Pack is often requested as well. “It has an applicator with a long stem that conveys elegance, while also helping to deliver a high-precision application,” she says.
Sunny Choi, chief marketing officer, CTK Cosmetics, says the trends in lip color differ by region. “In the U.S., glossy and liquid lip products are popular. In Asia, matte lip color is still widely preferred. Due to these differences, we developed packaging that could accommodate various types of formulations,” she says.
CTK Cosmetics offers an Airtight Slim Stick. “It is ideal for soft, high-water-content lipstick formulas, as well the more traditional hard, matte lipstick formulas. This airtight case allows formulation flexibility,” says Choi.
Katarina Koo, overseas marketing/assistant manager, Illupack, says that more liquid types of lip color, such as lip gloss as well as lip oils, are trending. “Brands are also requesting silicone applicators in unique shapes,” says Koo. Illupack offers two new lip gloss packages, and one for lipstick. “The lip gloss packs are bi-injection molded, and include a window so consumers can see the product color inside,” she says. The supplier also offers an airtight lipstick package.
Darren Eade, president of sales, Kemas USA, says, “We see a decline in liquid lip formulas, and a trend back toward traditional lipstick. Ingredients have evolved, so traditional lipstick bullets are much softer.” Eade says softer formulations are driving a demand for airtight packages for lip color. “Airtight packages can be produced in a number of ways to ensure an airtight seal. This requires high cavitation tooling,” Eade says. Kemas has over 30 years of experience in this area, Eade says, so his team is skilled in understanding how to eliminate risk factors to ensure the stability of all types of formulations.
Mascara Market Trends
Mascara has come a long way since the standard three options—curling, volumizing or lengthening formulas. Due to brush innovations, combination formulas can deliver on several different claims, including non-clumping and lash-defining. There are also tubing and fiber mascaras, as well as primers and bottom lash versions.
Research reveals that of all the types of eye makeup, mascara holds the largest market share, at approximately 35%. Analysts say the global eye makeup market size has risen steadily since 2018, when its value was estimated at $14.5 billion. A CAGR of 5.7% is expected through 2025, according to Grand View Research.
What’s driving the demand for mascara? Celebrity endorsements, researchers say. In addition, waterproof mascaras are expected to witness more growth than regular, due to the rise in waterproof formulas that are easy to remove.
Another report by the same company states that the global herbal and organic mascara market size was estimated at $109.4 million in 2018 and is anticipated to register a CAGR of 5.3% through 2025—rising to $156.5 million. The report states, “The rising influence of social media marketing and online beauty influencers on Millennials is projected to bode well for market growth.”
John Kurek, vice president, mascara product marketing, HCP U.S. says he sees many brands, especially Indies, launching mascara with organic, vegan, natural and cruelty-free claims.
These new formulas affect applicator performance, Kurek notes. “Ingredients in formulations are being modified to meet brands’ and customers’ expectations. Packaging suppliers are responding to these changes in core formulation ingredients by modifying conventional applicator development—to ensure a product delivers on its performance claims,” Kurek explains.
Volumizing mascara is most in demand, experts say. “There is a growing demand for volumizing formulas,” says Kurek. “Formulas with fiber additives have been trending, to assist in building volume onto the lash,” he says. “Also, more brands are seeking to launch ‘hero’ mascaras or multi-functional products that offer ‘all-in-one’ performance to provide volume, length, definition and curl.”
HCT’s Manning also mentions volumizing formulas—and the “clean beauty” trend, saying, “Volumizing mascara has been in high-demand and has remained a mainstay in the beauty industry.” She adds, “We receive many requests for formulas that have a high percentage of naturally derived ingredients, and help brands to launch clean formulas that don’t sacrifice performance,” she says.
Bob Congionti, VP of operations, Tokiwa Cosmetics America, says Tubing Mascaras offer exceptional volume, and are popular. “Demand and requests for our film forming or ‘tube’ type mascaras are still very strong and growing in the U.S. markets.,” he says. “In the Asian markets, these are among the most popular and requested versions of mascaras, especially among younger consumers,” he adds.
Two-in-one packages for mascara are also popular, according to Congionti. “Our customers are increasingly requesting new versions of multi-function packaging, such as a mascara on one end and perhaps an eyebrow gel, liquid eyeliner, or tip-on powder on the other end. These components are very sleek in design, very portable and extremely functional,” he adds.
Recent Mascara Launches Are Innovative—and Glamorous
Mascara packaging hasn’t changed much in terms of design, until recently. Westman Atelier’s Eye Love You Mascara, described as “the first luxury clean mascara,” is housed in a chic gold debossed metal cylinder. It has a large cylindrical brush with densely arranged bristles to volumize, define, and curl lashes. The bristles are derived from a plant-based resin of castor plant seeds. The formula is 96% natural.
Angela Piner of AVP Creative worked closely with Westman Atelier’s founder, Gucci Westman, to perfect the synergy between the formulation and custom package. “Mascara is known as one of the most challenging products to develop. The brush, wand, and wiper combination is critical to delivering results— every millimeter counts,” she says. “We went through countless revisions to get to Gucci’s precise performance expectations, which isn’t easy with a clean formulation. It had to be pitch black, reflective, glossy, easy to use—and deliver mile-long lashes in one swipe,” Piner explains.
Talking about its design, Piner adds, “A slight departure of the monochromatic matte exterior of the current sticks, we wanted to introduce contrast with color and finish; the matte black cap and shiny gold cylinder proved worthy of this contrast.”
Too Faced also has a new mascara with a glamorous look—Damn Girl. The team at HCT Group developed this package. “Jerrod Blandino had a very specific vision for Damn Girl, and who its user would be. He was quoted as saying, ‘It’s for the stiletto girls. It’s for the woman taking charge of her life.’ So we wanted to bring this vision to life with a package that embodied this persona,” explains Vivian Maurin, vice president, business development, HCT. “We have been partners with Too Faced for many years, and creating this component for them was an exciting challenge that ultimately captured Jerrod’s direction perfectly.” HCT Group also produces the best-selling Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara.
IT Cosmetics worked with HCP to launch its Lash Blow Out Mascara. The supplier states, “IT Cosmetics created a unique and attention-grabbing custom HCP pack, incorporating an ergonomic handle design for effortless application and control. The design was innovatively created to look like a volumizing hairbrush. The pack is styled in an ultra-modern gray and vibrant yellow combination, with metallic foils contrasting against the matte finish.”
Inspired by the technology used to create barrel hairbrushes, the specially designed fiber brush features HCP’s patented Spider technology—microspheres at the end of each bristle gently grip each lash for root-to-tip application; delivering beautiful separation, instant lift and clean volume.
Fenty Beauty just launched its first mascara, Full Frontal. The “flat-to-fat” brush, described on its website, has one side designed to hold the maximum amount of product, while the other side is able to define and curl each hair.
Estée Lauder Pure Color Envy Lash Mascara also features a dual brush, and this is highlighted by the fact that one side is red. The red side is a molded brush, for length and separation, while the other is a bristle brush, for volume and lift.
Maybelline New York, known for years as a leader in mascara with its iconic Great Lash, still tops “best mascara” lists. Maybelline Total Temptation Mascara was a “top lab pick” on Good Housekeeping’s list of 7 Best Mascaras last year. A post at Southern Living is titled, “This Coconut-Scented Mascara Has the Best Brush on the Beauty Aisle,” and described it as lush and full-bristled. A writer at Byrdie proclaims, “Usually, with a brush this size, you forgo separated lashes for thickness and volume. However, there’s some magic happening here because it somehow pulls off both.”
Stand-Out Lip Color Packaging
Lip color typically requires a twist-up case if it’s a lipstick bullet or tinted balm—or tubes and bottles with applicators are the norm for stains, oils, and glosses. Some brands and suppliers are departing from the norm with innovative designs. Westman Atelier just launched an innovative lip color (in addition to its luxe mascara, described above) — Lip Suede Huile De Cerise. Four shades of red are in a red lacquered compact with a mirror.
AVP Creative’s Piner is hearing positive feedback about the unique design, saying, “We knew it was special when anyone who saw the prototypes had the same excitement we had—they were immediately drawn in and asked, ‘what is that?’ Once opened, the color projection is impactful without the visual interruption of pans. This required a unique filling process,” Piner explains.
The clean formulation features a high level of moisturizing cold-pressed cherry oil, which is highlighted in the product name. The colors can be worn individually or blended, and applied with a lip brush or finger. “Creating the right shade of red for the compact was paramount,” says Piner. “It was inspired by a beautiful bright orange red hue Gucci wanted to create in the shade line-up,” she explains.
Allta International is a supplier that offers something new for lip color—a Lip Powder Palette.
“Apply the gloss first, then the colored powder, to create a matte or shiny finish,” says Berkman, president/CEO. “Functionality is driving new designs and formulas for lip color, he adds.
Lipstick bullets are often embossed with a brand’s logo or other designs. MAC Cosmetics recently took this design element to the next level with its limited edition Kiss of Stars Lipstick, in its recent Holiday collection. The glitter-coated lipstick, in its sparkle-coated case, is adorned with practically an entire galaxy of stars.
Winky Lux, which just opened its first flagship store in New York, relaunched its best-selling lip oil with a new name—and a Valentine’s-Day-themed design. Cross My Heart Lip Oil is a high-shine gloss that has tiny pink and red hearts suspended in its clear formula. It contains peptides, plus hydrating avocado, sunflower and jojoba oils.
So Many Options for Lips
Consumers have come to expect a vast selection of colors and finishes for lips—and beauty brands are delivering. One recent launch is L’Oréal Paris Rouge Signature Lip Stain, a lightweight “Matte Colored Ink.” It has a stain-like feel, combined with the color impact of a liquid lipstick. There are 17 new colors, which were recently added to the original 20—for a total of 37 colors in the line. It’s in a clear bottle with a black and gold cap. The precision applicator has a pointed tip.
Clinique recently debuted Even Better Pop Lip Colour Foundation, and it comes in 28 shades designed “to flatter all skin tones and undertones,” the brand says. Clinique’s “Shade Match Science” tool will determine the three most flattering lip colors for your skin tone based on your Even Better foundation shade. “We use an algorithm built on the Golden Ratio, a harmonious proportion that underlies the most beautiful works of art and nature,” Clinique states. There are 168 different color combinations.
It Cosmetics just launched its first lipstick line, Pillow Lips, described as a high-pigment “moisture-wrapping” lipstick. The line debuted with 14 shades, each of which are offered in both cream and matte finishes, for a total of 28 options. The lipstick cap is decorated to resemble a quilted pillow and the bullet is embossed with the brand’s logo.
Urban Decay’s Vice Lipstick, in an updated version of its iconic original lipstick case that looks like a shotgun shell, still ranks first for offering the most color options—135 shades in six finishes. Options are Mega Matte, Comfort Matte, Cream, Metallized, Sheer, and Sheer Shimmer. The faceted gunmetal lipstick case has a gold base and debossed lettering, and it can now be personalized.
A Squeezable Mascara
One new mascara that may soon be a gamechanger is in a squeezable package— LashControl. It has an innovative flexible wiper design called “SqueezeControl.” This feature was invented and patented by Jennifer Paulson-Lee, founder/president of LashControl / U. Control Packaging (UCP).
Now the company has a new partner, Cosmopak. Cosmopak will integrate UCP’s SqueezeControl technology across a line of exclusive packaging designs, making the concept available for other brands to use.
“We believe our collaboration with Cosmopak is a terrific growth opportunity…and is in keeping with our long-term licensing objectives for our patented, trademarked dispensing system,” says Paulson-Lee.
The SqueezeControl sleeve is fun to use, Paulson says, because it is ergonomic and intuitive. Squeeze the flex-wiper sleeve with finger pressure while pulling the brush out. Excess formula is wiped off, and stays inside the tube.
Walter Dwyer, global president, Cosmopak, says, “We are excited to share our new exclusive packaging designs and incorporate this game-changing innovation in the coming months.
Turnkey options will also be available with a range of customization specific to brand image.” Brand-specific options will include a selection of exterior shapes, various brush styles, different component materials and a selection of finishes.
Paulson-Lee says she came up with the idea for a squeezable package while applying her mascara, and scraping off the excess product from the brush onto a tissue. “I thought, there should be a squeeze section on this bottle.”
Squeeze This Lip Gloss
Another innovative package that users can squeeze is Flip Lip, by CTK Cosmetics—and it aims to solve messy lip gloss application issues. “Lip gloss has been around for a long time, but its packaging hasn’t changed much. Traditional designs don’t provide a flawless user experience as the formula builds up around the cap. It is also difficult to pick up residual formula at the bottom of the container with a rod-like applicator,” says CTK’s Choi.
Flip Lip is designed to upgrade the user’s experience. “Flip the cap open, squeeze the middle of the body, and you can easily apply lip gloss without a mess—and with one hand,” says Choi.
“The slanted tip applicator allows for easy application and lip definition,” she continues. “We can also customize the tip shape,” she says. Flip Lip also has a large area to allow for branding and all types of decoration for a custom look.
Designs & Applicator Advancements for Mascara
A mascara product’s performance depends so much on the applicator, and its design.
“Applicators need to have a marketing angle, but remain true to science with both the formula, stem and wiper. Gimmicks, including oversized applicators or crazy designs won’t give brands a repeat purchase,” says Christopher Tarling, founder, MIXCreative.
Tarling says the company worked with its founding partners Sanderson Macleod to create patented multi-brush materials and a patented automation method called Custom Integrated Makeup Applicators (CIMA). Tarling explains, “CIMA allows our clients to create new molded and hybrid brush designs in minutes…we will roll out this new technology in 2020.”
HCT Group’s innovative Twist Wiper Mascara features an adjustable collar, so the width of the wiper can be changed. This allows the user to control the amount of product that is left on the brush, to achieve the desired effect. The supplier also offers the Oval 2-in-1—featuring a mascara and liquid liner in one package, on opposite ends. The polypropylene bottle has a sleek, luxe aluminum overshell.
Another supplier, HCP, offers numerous brush shapes. “Our new Lash Studio and Mascara and Brow Brush Innovation and Development Center provides an interactive and collaborative environment for customers to achieve the perfect application,” says HCP’s Kurek. “The center brings together over 40 years’ of twisted-wire brush making knowledge and expertise, as well as state-of-the-art micro-injection molded brush ingenuity,” he adds.
HCP’s SIMP designs, engineers, and manufactures new molded mascara brush shapes at its facility in Paris, and offers beauty brands three new shapes. The Jalouse plastic brush offers instant volume, curl and length by combining cone and petal-shaped bristles. The Feather Comb has a feather-shaped profile with a tapered tip to reach inner and outer corner lashes, providing separation and lengthening. The Teardrop Twist achieves a lash look with volume, curl and length with a twist formation and a teardrop profile that aligns perfectly with the curvature of the eye. The widely spaced, petal-shaped bristles deliver an even application in one stroke.
Anne-Laure Linage, color cosmetics marketing director, Albéa, says, “For mascara, the shape of a brush depends on where you sell. Asia still focuses on shorter tips, for instance our La Petite mascara brush, whereas in the Middle East you focus on big tips,” she explains. “We recently launched the Fruit collection of plastic mascara brushes—and our Mango brush is one of the biggest on the market, to serve this specific target,” adds Linage.
Albéa recently partnered with Erpro 3D Factory, a leading start-up in 3D technology innovation, to offer fully-personalized cosmetic packaging solutions. “This opens a new universe of designs for applicators, with customization at an industrial scale. Our featured collection is called Desert, with four 3D-printed brushes in bold shapes,” says Linage.
Applicators and Wipers Affect Lip Gloss Performance
Like mascara, applicators and wipers matter for lip color packaging as well—or any type of liquid lip color in a bottle with a brush.
HCP offers a wide range of applicators in different shapes, materials, flock adhesives, flocking length and density. “These factors all play a role in product performance,” says HCP’s Godefriot. “Our team will recommend the optimal specifications to ensure that the best product pick-up and pay-off is achieved. For lip gloss, the functionality of the pack strongly contributes to the success of the product. An expert pairing is essential for an outstanding performance.
While the focus is often on formula and applicator, the wiper is key to the ideal amount of bulk being left on the applicator prior to application.”
HCP offers bi-injected and TPE wipers, as well as wipers made by SIMP in NBR (Nitrile Butadiene Rubber). “Our stock Fusion Sleek Lip Gloss is paired with a bi-injected wiper. It combines the hardness of LDPE for pull force retention, with the softness of TPE for an ideal wiping function,” explains Godefroit.
Bertille Blais, market manager, color cosmetics, lips, Albéa, advises that thin applicators are more precise–and ideal for liquid lipstick and long-lasting formulas. “An applicator with a large, soft surface is ideal for gloss. It can make the application more comfortable and help differentiate the product,” Blais explains. Albéa offers large tips for lip gloss applicators called Exquisite and Sensual. “We are bringing sensation to the application,” says Blais.
Metal Looks Luxe
Metal and metallized finishes give lipstick and mascara packaging a luxe look. Westman Atelier’s glamorous gold mascara is one example, shown above.
Kemas’ Eade says metal and metallized finishes for lip and mascara products are in high demand—especially for luxury brands. “Since opening the doors to our new metal facility, we have been developing some beautiful double and triple anodized metal components,” says Eade.
Kemas recently worked with NARS to produce a black and gold double anodized lipstick as part of its Studio 54 collection. “This collection was impressive, and also included a fully glittered component. It’s exciting to work with brands that are willing to push the envelope in design and offer their customers products and packaging that is new and luxurious.”
Metal can also be a sustainable material, in addition to the other eco-friendly options described below. Libo offers a metal lipstick case that is made with 100% recycled aluminum. It reduces the carbon footprint of the manufacturing process, when compared to virgin material. The case can be decorated using silk-screening or hot-stamping. Libo also offers a new aluminum mascara package, which can be paired with a selection of different types of applicators.
Suppliers Offer Sustainable Options
Sustainability is always an important issue for beauty brands and packaging teams, but it is sometimes more challenging for lip color and mascara. These packages typically include applicators, as well as other parts, often made from different materials. At one time it was nearly impossible for consumers to properly recycle a lip gloss or mascara package, but now there are several options.
HCT Group offers a new Eco Lipstick and Eco Lip Gloss. The patent-pending lipstick package is made from 100% PET. These packages are part of HCT Group’s “Designed for Recycling Initiative.” Adding PCR material is an option for both, for an even more compelling eco-conscious brand story.
Kemas’ Eade says he sees a major move now toward more sustainable and recyclable packaging solutions. “We have been making 100% mono material (PET) lipsticks for over 15 years, and there has never been a demand for them outside of Japan until now. We have had a long time to perfect our mechanisms using these materials, so there is no compromise to the quality and functionality,” he adds.
Kemas offers a patent-pending refillable lipstick that contains a recyclable cartridge and mechanism that is 100% recyclable. “Refillable lipsticks have been around since the 1960s, but the majority of mechanisms designed since then contain magnet fixtures that lock the mechanism into the base,” Eade says. “We came up with a lipstick refill cartridge that doesn’t contain magnets, and won’t allow the consumer to use it unless it is fixed into the base.”
MIXCreative’s Tarling says he often works with brands to develop mascara packaging, using various types of eco-friendly materials. “We use proprietary fibers, renewably sourced materials and PCR. These considerations, for the future, help both brands and consumers lower their environmental impact,” he says, adding, “Formula compatibility and local government regulations must be carefully followed to keep safe products on the shelf as some are not cleared for cosmetics reuse when recycling.”
The team at Brivaplast developed a sustainable line for lip gloss and mascara called “This is My Second Life!” The bottles are made with 100% PETR from recycled water bottles. The ABS caps are made using 50% internal industrial waste. The caps can also be made from wood from a renewable source, using certified PEFC and FSC. Brivaplast’s Manera says, “We used a varnish to decorate the packages that contains 40% renewable ingredients—resins and petrochemical solvents are replaced with resins of vegetable origin and bio-solvents.”
Geka introduced sustainable packaging for mascara and lip gloss last year—the “verTentation” collection. The mascara bottles are 100% food PCR-PET, produced out of post-consumer PET-A bottle scraps. The caps are 100% PCR-PP, made from post-consumer PP scraps, such as yogurt cups and detergent bottles. The LLDPE wiper includes 84% bio-based content, derived from sugar cane. Brushes are made of Geka`s greenLine bio-based fiber, which is 100% renewable raw materials derived from the castor oil plant.
Geka offers this mascara turnkey, in three options, Lengthening, Defintion, and Volume. The ‘clean’ vegan formula doesn’t include, parabens, allergens, or black carbon. The three formulas are paired with mascara brushes.
Blais spoke to us about Albéa’s sustainability initiatives, which includes making changes to ensure its packaging is “recyclable-ready.” Blais says, “We offer lipgloss and mascara packs with up to 100% PCR,” noting that Albéa was the first plastic packaging supplier to sign Ellen MacArthur’s New Plastics Economy Global Commitment.
Blais mentions how confusing it can be, however—for both brands and consumers. She advises, “There are so many ways to approach sustainability, and many different materials. In the end, remember that using recycled materials is key.”
