Jamie Matusow, Editor-in-Chief11.02.15
Participation was up high double digits over 2014, according to show organizers.
The B2B show was held at Manhattan’s Penn Plaza Pavilion, where facility shortcomings prompted “MakeUp In” organizers to announce that next year’s cosmetics-centric event would switch venues. Regardless, many suppliers and attendees reported great results.
While both large and small brands were meeting with suppliers, Jim Perry, president/CEO, Taiki USA, said, “Small brands are the bread and butter of this show. They are the people who move fast and bring innovation to the table.”
Both expo days included an additional full schedule of conferences, and most proved to be standing room only.
A survey of the show floor turned up a number of leading trends. Formulations have become more complex and sophisticated than ever, tasking packaging suppliers with creating new ways to hold and dispense products. In many cases, usage and dispensing methods have become critical to consumer experience and loyalty, and the two must work together synergistically for overall satisfaction. (For more on this topic, please see Mintel video at BeautyPackaging.com)
At Compax, owner Mark Carr told Beauty Packaging, “There’s now a general trend toward unique dispensing systems, as you can’t do much with bottle shapes.” He said Compax is focusing on differentiating through applicators and dispensing systems for products from serums to powders, creams to makeup.
Benefit-Oriented
Participation was up high double digits over 2014, according to show organizers
HCT Group premiered its turnkey cosmetics collection called The Art of War—which took aim against environmental enemies, arming skin care formulations with anti-aging properties and ingredients meant to fight against dryness, pollution and UV, with nutritive elements to boot. The Group’s new patent pending gel tip applicator mimics a finger for an extra soft touch, but it’s more hygienic. (For details on this collection, see HCT Group video at BeautyPackaging.com.)
Polychromatic’s president Tracey Leacock told Beauty Packaging she’s seeing a trend toward adding nutritive or growth enhancements to nail products. (See Polychromatic’s video at BeautyPackaging.com.)
Focus on the Eyes
Albéa’s three-step eyebrow kit
At 3C Inc., which specializes in cosmetic pens, president Lou Della Pesca told Beauty Packaging that his “eye liners and brow pens had received more action than anything else.” On offer were seven different designs for eyeliner pens, including several new components that are dual containers, such as one that’s an eyeliner pen on one side and a brow pen on the other. 3C offered different sized applicator heads depending on the brow application—from thin to thick. One combo featured a double-ended brow pen with mascara. (Please see 3C Inc. video at BeautyPackaging.com)
Trilogy, a three-step eyebrow kit from Albéa, features a compact with a unique 3-in-1
Part of Geka’s new collection will now be produced at its plant in the U.S.
Italian manufacturer Confalonieri displayed wooden pencils for applications for eyebrows, lips and concealers. Many were double-ended. A “brush” was attached to the clear plastic over cap of the eyebrow pencil for easy blending. Dr. Valeria Piano described a new technique for contouring, called “strobing,” which uses double-duty pencils for color and highlighting.
Several of Pascual Cosmetique’s color cosmetics hung on MakeUp in NewYork’s traveling ‘Innovation Tree’ that appeared at the entrance to the show. One popular product was a small jar with a foam cushion infused with eyeliner. The product was easy to apply with a small brush—for amazing control and finish. Also of interest: cream to powder blush and eye shadow formulations and an Aqua Power Foundation, comprised of 60% water.
BASF featured its water-based eyeshadow in “gilded” forest green. The product resembles a wash of color on the lids, and dries to an ultra-soft and smooth finish. Since it’s a water-based formulation, it rinses off with water, so does not require makeup remover.
Aircos was featuring a back-injection technology for a glossy metal texture in both shimmer and matte finishes that creates a rich look for eyes, as well as lips and cheeks. The technology is also used to create a new look for smoky eyes with a hybrid formulation that’s a cross between a cream and a powder.
South Korean supplier Taeik, an Innovation Tree winner for its Triangle Shaped Eyebrow Pencil, showcased a wide variety of tools for eyebrow, lip and cheek—in wood, plastic and crayon configurations. A waterproof auto gel pencil, dual pencils and mini sizes were also available.
Among other applicators for makeup and skin care, SIMP was showing attendees several new mascara brushes, in different shapes and with various new accessories designed to plump, curl and shape. (See SIMP video at BeautyPackaging.com.)
Geka’s new mascara collection, which previewed at MakeUp in NewYork, is called “All Eyes on US,” a play on words with the “US,” as the German-based company was announcing that it will now be producing a number of standard items at its plant in the U.S., near Chicago. The facility currently handles custom items. A new, large tool will be introduced there, which will fill a huge, 12.5ml mascara tube with a big brush. Geka’s recent purchase of Oeka has also expanded their capabilities for additional cosmetics components and decorating services.
Delivering on Dispensing
Fusion Packaging introduced its new airless Pure Jar.
Fusion Packaging introduced its new airless Pure Jar. This streamlined package combines the prestige of a jar with the protection of airless dispensing in an innovative push-up style. The simple engineless design allows for more hygienic, user-controlled formula dosing and one-way product flow, thereby reducing the possibility of contamination that can occur by dipping fingers into traditional jars. The Pure Jar’s ascending base button offers a unique indicator system to alert the consumer when it’s time to replenish. (See Fusion video at BeautyPackaging.com.)
In addition to a wide range of cosmetic packaging, Lumson displayed its airless packaging solutions, including bottles made from eco-friendly Green PE, a plastic derived from sugarcane. They are available in 30- and 50ml capacities, with airless pouch dispensing systems that offer a restitution rate greater than 95%.
Another product Innovation Tree winner was first-time MakeUp in NewYork exhibitor Roberts Cosmetics & Containers. The company introduced its Powder Lifter, an alternative to traditional systems that dispense powder cosmetics, via a controlled one-dose system. After using, just turn the compact over and a new dosage appears. All with no waste and no mess—and ideal for foundations and loose powder eye color. The supplier describes it as a cleaner, more efficient alternative to a traditional sifter jar, which tends to be messy when too much product is dispensed.
Give Us Some Lip
New puffs from Taiki use laser printing for decorating.
Brush-Ups
Applicators, in particular, brushes, were once again a highlight of MakeUp in NewYork—with options ranging from triangular to square, natural to synthetic.
Taiki was highlighting its special Tafre fiber, and Perry said the trend in makeup applicators, is “definitely toward synthetics.” Many of the company’s applicators and sponges focus on antimicrobial properties. New puffs use laser printing for a wide variety of eye-catching decorations, from logos to photos. As an ode to the art of brushes, Taiki welcomed a world-renowned calligraphy artist for a few lovely performances during the show.
FM Brush also provided a large array of synthetic brushes, many with new, patented shapes, such as a triangular one for cosmetic applications. Even when they work with a supplier of synthetic fibers, they bring the project in-house to develop a unique brush of their own. The fourth generation company claims to be the only USA manufacturer of cosmetic brushes. Jeffrey Mink, grandson of the founder, told Beauty Packaging that they can “basically replicate any natural material used for cosmetic brushes.” They also produce an expansive line of patented theatrical brushes.
Anisa International offered a number of products, including Synthetic Dual-Fiber brushes, which they said, “provide a higher level of quality, cost control and sensorial advantage to the cosmetic brush.” Blend Setters is a set of versatile, easy-to-use brushes that work together with contouring sticks to swipe and blend. The Aquae Collection brushes feature attractive stylized handle designs. Anisa International’s Lock In Your Look Retractable brushes were selected for MakeUp in NewYork’s Innovation Tree.
The Tip & Blend Brush Collection was displayed at Pennelli Faro. The supplier said the range was developed after studying the ways women and makeup artists apply foundation cosmetics. The brushes have a rounded shape, with a central tip, which allows the cosmetic product to be poured straight onto the tip. This eliminates a step in the application process, and also avoids potential bacterial contamination. The brushes are made with dermatologically tested and registered synthetic hair.
Cosmogen, another company featured on MakeUp in NewYork’s Innovation Tree, revealed a new skin care ritual that highlights a magnetic ball. Attract One boasts a plastic applicator topped with a metal ball for a cooling—or warming—sensorial cream application. Stimulating and hygienic, it is currently in production and scheduled for a launch in the first quarter of 2016. (Please see Cosmogen video at BeautyPackaging.com.)
More Turnkey Offerings
The Color Group, a contract manufacturer based in Quebec, was a first-time exhibitor at MakeUp in NewYork, presenting formulations for products from lip to body. Brands that choose the company’s powder atomizers can provide their own color and fragrance—or select one from The Color Group’s vast inventory, for a full turnkey solution. The company deals mostly with mid- to high-end brands, and offers low minimums. Lipsticks and pressed powders are another specialty, and their silicone mold technology enables them to offer a number of shapes and embossing techniques. Alexandre Nault, director of operations, told Beauty Packaging that they have seen a strong trend toward “mostly pastel colors mixed with nudes” for Spring 2016.
First-time MakeUp in NewYork exhibitor CSR is another Canadian turnkey and contract manufacturing company, located north of Ontario. The “trend-driven” supplier specializes in skin care and color cosmetics and offers a complete innovation and R&D department.
New for Nails
Nail care bottles were embellished at Pinkpac, which has developed a 3D printing technique that gives customers the option to print any graphic on any plastic cap.
Leacock of Polychromatic, said, in addition to a move toward bringing treatment products together with nail polish (see above), she is also noticing an increase in pastel colors for next season.
For videos of the show, featuring suppliers and Mintel color cosmetic analysts, please go to BeautyPackaging.com.
The top three student packaging designers (L-R): Jacob Baldry, Lawrence H. Chang and Brian Loja
MakeUp in NewYork worked with the Packaging Engineering program at Rutgers University to organize the nationwide contest. Six colleges and universities entered, with a total of 18 teams. In July, a jury of industry professionals reviewed all projects and selected five finalists. Their projects were presented at MakeUp in NewYork, where show attendees had the opportunity to vote for teams to receive the gold, silver and bronze prizes.
The Gold Prize of $3,000 and an airline ticket to attend MakeUp In Paris went to ChapDisc/Rutgers University/Pr. H. Bennett/ Lawrence H Chang & Shawn Z. Orzechowski. The Silver Prize of $2,000 went to Ready/University of Oregon/Pr. R. Fore/Jacob Baldry; and the Bronze Prize of $1,000 went to Saphire/Rutgers University/Dr. E. Lee/Brian Loja. The two other finalists—Gaia/Virginia Polytechnic Institute Ohio State/Dr. L. Horvath/Daniel Kim & Juliette Portisch; and Trivit/University of Oregon/Pr. R. Fore/Ethan Ouimet, Mary Dunford & Britney Lang, each received a $500 prize for their participation.
