Jamie Matusow, Editor06.04.13
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Cosmetic kits from MG New York double as fashionable clutches once the products are depleted. |
Colorful lipstick bullets and richly hued pressed powders have long drawn consumer interest with pops of color emerging from classic black tubes and compacts. But now there’s a growing trend for cosmetics packaging to be as bright and sophisticated as the bulk contained within.
Beauty seems to be following fashion more than ever this spring, taking bold cues from what fashion designers are showing on runways all over the world.
Some beauty brands are even collaborating with fashion designers on special packaging collections.
The Lancôme Show by Alber Elbaz collection infuses the fashion designer’s wit into Lancôme’s glamorous eye wardrobe. |
In an association with Nars, Pierre Hardy, known for his glamorous footwear and handbag designs, branched out into cosmetics, creating a range of beauty products with the luxury brand. The Provocative Pairs collection features six nail polish pairs inspired by namesake shoes from
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Nars collaborated with glamorous footwear and handbag designer Pierre Hardy for a range of beauty products. |
In addition to the nail polishes, a pair of limited edition blush palettes from Nars highlights a shimmering gold overspray of Pierre Hardy’s signature avant-garde cubist print.
A Healthy Market
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Victoria Gustafson, principal of strategic insights, SymphonyIRI |
She says cosmetic packages are becoming more of an accessory. In mass, says Gustafson, suppliers are innovating in a higher value way, making mass products look more prestige.
In the prestige sector, Karen Grant, NPD’s vice president and global beauty industry analyst—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s board of advisors—says prestige color cosmetics are off to a strong start in 2013. According to NPD, prestige makeup generated sales of $3.8 billion in 2012.
And special packaging plays a strong role.
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Karen Grant, vice president and global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s board of advisors |
While Grant says premium priced offerings are a relatively small component of the prestige makeup market, “The desire to indulge—and also for a taste of opulence—is met in packaging that showcases gold, fine metals, jewel tones, royal colors, deep rich browns and the resurgence of black. These are among the ways that color cosmetics have translated this trend for luxury which we expect to continue to play an important role in the category.”
Why Color?
Why the move toward more colorful packaging as a differentiator?
Jonathan Ford, of international package design firm Pearlfisher, believes the trend goes beyond design and deco and, in fact, marks a major transition in the beauty industry.
Ford says, “Color is now a very different—and an all-encompassing proposition—for cosmetic and beauty brands. And I think we are currently seeing two distinct directives that have the potential to develop a new platform for both color per se and for the perception of the cosmetics industry as a whole.”
He tells Beauty Packaging, “On the one hand, we are looking to see just how much further we can push the boundaries and permutations of color—we are seeing a new brand freedom and fluidity which is reflecting the consumer need for a new form of radical and independent expression.”
On the other hand, Ford says, “We are also seeing color—or rather lack of it—used in unexpected ways with, for example, Margiela and his affinity for white. The composition of his packaging and numbering system is anything but uniform and understated.”
Colorful Niche Brands
NPD’s Grant notes that the market is changing due to the number of cosmetics companies emerging. “As the market accelerates, much of the innovation is coming from small niche, alternative brands,” she says. “This leaves room for manufacturers of innovative packaging to partner with new players as they gain greater reach in the cosmetics arena both online and in-store.”
This is a trend that resonates with John Pyrzenski, sales director, HCT Group, who believes new niche brands and lack of consumer loyalty are factors that have led to increased innovation in packaging for color cosmetics.
He says, “New and niche brands continue to emerge as a growing and diversified consumer market continues to pull for new products and experiments with different offerings. The customer is no longer fiercely loyal; there is intrigue to try what may be interesting or perceived as a value or benefit.”
Formulations Take the Lead
And amidst all the talk of packaging, let’s not forget the formulations—and the synchronicity of the two.
NPD’s Grant reminds, “Along with the seasonal and limited edition novelties today, the hottest trend in color cosmetics is around novelties and innovation in product forms and textures whether that be offerings such as caviar, suede or tars for lips, tie dyed or ‘paranormal’ glowing nails, or gels for eye products. As texture and product form take center stage, the trend in packaging has become more about setting the stage, showcasing it in streamlined, clean, almost undetectable casing—the attention being subtly directed to spotlighting the newest and greatest hot offering.”
A perfect example, according to Pyrzenski, is evidenced in the flurry of alphabet skin care launches.
Blemish Balm (BB), Color Control (CC), and the forthcoming Daily Defense (DD) creams have created a flurry of activity in the liquid foundation and tinted moisturizer category.The blending of color and skin care continues to be a target for innovation,” says Pyrzenski.
A Challenge for Suppliers
Cosmetic packaging suppliers are often tasked with bridging fashion and beauty—and formulation and packaging. Thus, they are also the first to notice general trends in the industry.
At Topline Products, Sandra Hutson notes: “One trend I have noticed in cosmetics design is clean angular and geometric packaging shapes. One good example is the prestige makeup line that Topline recently produced for Burberry Beauty. Its simple, clean lines not only make the package stand out but the design also harmonizes perfectly with the positioning elegance and understated chic of the brand’s clothing and accessory collections.”
Jackie Mantle, managing director, HCP Packaging UK Ltd, says one of the key trends the company has noted is a “higher specification finishing for mass and prestige brand packaging.” She says, “As the masstige sector moves closer to prestige positioning, through the use of added value finishing such as metallization and spray finishes, the premium brands have a need to try to differentiate themselves at an even more luxury aesthetic.”
Fusion Packaging’s marketing manager, Jessica Cahalen, says, “With a savvier consumer comes the need to enhance not only the formulation, but also the primary packaging. We predict that as consumers continue to look for more advanced formulas and smarter packaging, airless packaging systems will continue to grow in the color space.”
She adds, “We’re starting to see unique formulations for cheeks, eyes and lips—no longer just powders, but gels and creams—that are all compatible with airless packaging.”
New in Nails
Nowhere is the extensive range of colors—from bold brights to sophisticated nudes evidenced as much as in nail polish, the current favorite of color cosmetics (still with double-digit growth—almost 20% in 2012, but down from about 21% in the previous year according to Symphony IRI’s Gustafson). Here, we can also see a major influence from the runway—and one in which fashion color and nail color can clash—and lead to big changes.
Gustafson points out: “With couture clothing popping out in vibrant colors on the runway, models have been following a trend of nude nails. Features such as 3D add SKUs to nudes—but overall, a trend to nude nails could cause pale faces in the cosmetics industry.”
And indeed, a photo from Chanel’s spring runway collection showed a model carrying one of the luxury brand’s new vibrantly colored Lego-inspired clutches—but wearing a sheer color on her nails.
But the nail category continues to roll out new formulations—including many sheers and neutrals—and new packaging to complement it.
Shivie Dhillon, president of LA-based Bottle Coatings, a division of Sundial Powder Coatings, which offers an innovative, patent-pending process that safeguards UV nail gels against premature curing, with custom or stock powder-coated bottles, says: “The nail industry has been a pacesetter in many ways, reinventing their packaging techniques to accommodate the new color options, gels and other marketing and technology breakthroughs.” The powder coating effectively blocks out harmful UV rays, leading to greater shelf life for the nail gel product.
At HCP, Sue Pickford, creative marketing manager, says, “The nail category is particularly strong at the moment with new launches and gel technology playing a big part in new developments.”
HCP has just developed the new luxury nail polish cap for Guerlain’s latest nail polish launch (see sidebar). And Pickford says, Illamasqua has launched a highly pigmented matte nail varnish with an innovative rubber-like finish. HCP created a soft touch nail cap to match Illamasqua’s formulation claims.
Dhillon says, “We’re not only protecting bottles from the elements, but also matching the contents of the bottle so that it represents the color inside. “Today’s consumers are used to seeing their color choice right there inside the bottle. Through precise color matching, we are able to offer that same familiar look as with a clear glass bottle.”
The current trend, says Dhillon, is toward different sizes and shapes for glass bottles. He says color “really pops out with the coating, much more than with a clear glass bottle, and stands on its own. Bottles that were outdated in the past are now coming back with interesting face lifts,” he says.
The Eyes Have It
Symphony IRI’s Gustafson notes that while the eye category grew by less than 1% —and eyeliners are doing pretty well—“we’re due for some eye shadow innovation.”
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The L’Oréal Color Riche Eyeshadow Quad compact, from Topline Products, features softly curved edges and a contoured lid. |
Lou Della Pesca, president, 3C Inc., says, “We’re seeing increased demand for products in pens—eye products, treatment pens, lip products. Brands are finding more and more uses for them. The pen may be a better method for applying a color product—such as lining eyes or outlining lips with a fine line.”
Topline’s Hutson comments: “Trending strongly are click pens and chubby crayons—a favorite for cosmetics consumers due to their ease of use and convenience.”
In contrast to this, Hutson says, “Organic and ergonomic shapes also seem to be gaining in popularity.” She cites the L’Oréal Color Riche Eyeshadow Quad compact, which features softly curved edges and a contoured lid.
Lip Products That Catch the Eye
Lip product packaging continues to reveal the color of the formulation via an outer feature so consumers know instantly what their choices are.
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HCP developed the Push Pull lipstick, which contains two lipsticks in one pack. |
With consumers’ penchant for double-duty products, Pickford says HCP has developed the Push Pull lipstick, which contains two lipsticks in one pack, so that the consumer can have two color offerings to switch from day to nighttime makeup using one pack. Or the pack can multitask by having a skin care benefit with a balm on one side and color on the other. Sealed with a Kiss was recently launched for the Minx range in the Middle East.
Applicators, too, are key to developing innovative packaging for lip and eye products.
Beauty consultant Eileeen Higgins says she thinks applicators and new applicator tip materials are important and growing. “Zamac tips and materials like this that provide a sensation and benefit when using will continue to be important.”
HCT Group has led in this area with its patented metal tip that’s assembled on a pump.
Winnie Sung, senior project manager, HCT West Coast, says, “Our patented metal tip, assembled onto a stock airless pump from our partner factory, makes a luxurious package for eye or lip application. This particular tip is 24KT gold and works perfectly for the prestige brand Hourglass’ opulent new Lip Oil.”
Foundations of Beauty
Symphony IRI’s Gustafson says facial cosmetics “are doing quite well.”
The widespread use of foundation along with its many offshoot properties and products—such as double-duty, SPF and moisturizing—has spurred a desire for increased and new packaging options—for both liquids and powders.
HCT West Coast’s Sung describes a new entry in the pressed powder category—HCT’s Ambient Lighting Powder Compact, also used for the Hourglass brand.
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A selection of color cosmetics packaging from Fusion Packaging |
“This compact is the newest addition to our stock Flat Range,” says Sung. “The unique lines and shape of the compact were built specifically for a square baked powder but also can be used for a pressed powder with enough room to house a sponge.”
Due to advanced, sensitive and complicated formulations, liquid foundations have given airless packaging a boost.
3C Inc.’s Della Pesca says airless bottles that were once used primarily for treatment—are now a growing area for color—primarily foundations . Fusion’s Cahalen, says, “We have seen demand for color in both airless and atmospheric packaging, which both have their advantages. Presently we do substantial business in the complexion category with foundation and primers leading the way. This is primarily because evacuation rates and formula preservation are enhanced in airless packaging.” For instance, Fusion is providing the packaging for Arbonne’s Perfecting Liquid Foundation SPF 15 as well as Laura Geller’s Take Cover Anti-Aging Foundation SPF 20.
In addition to airless, says Cahalen, “We offer unique atmospheric packaging solutions as seen by Urban Decay’s Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup.”
Alexander Kwapis, creative director at Fusion Packaging, says
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Hourglass’ opulent new Lip Oil features HCT Group’s patented metal tip, assembled onto a stock airless pump from its partner factory. |
Fusion used a stock collection that was custom modified to fit the specifications of the Naked Skin project. “Aesthetically,” says Kwapis, “the shape of the inner bottle creates a depth to the shade exposed, while mechanically speaking, the amount of UV inhibitor in the plastic gives clarity and protection to the product within.”
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Eve Pearl, owner of Eve Pearl Cosmetics, chose an airless jar for her latest color foundation launch. |
“This unique pump design allows for a precise and controlled amount of the skin care foundation to be dispensed onto the curved palette,” says Pearl. “The curved palette offers you the ability to either use a brush, a sponge or your fingers to pick up and apply the foundation to your face. The press pump controls the amount of product you desire to use—so it’s always smooth and simple, clean and sanitary.”
Pearl says the one challenge they faced with this airless pump was developing the proper viscosity for their liquid cream formulation to have a consistent and predictable flow through the pump and not to clog the existing orifice over time.
Colorful Kits
While many of the companies I spoke to for this article view kits as a more seasonal product, some specialize in providing full-face makeup palettes whether for holiday or everyday.
Gary Korba, chief officer operations and innovation, MG New York, manufacturers of high-end fashion compacts, tells Beauty Packaging, “The trend has been in large color kits with full face.” Instructions and trend information have been added to aid the consumer. He says, “We at MG New York believe that sustainable packaging can influence makeup kits by making the vehicle have a reusable value.” A good example is the MAC Holiday Clutch. “The platform is removable and the vehicle can be used as an evening clutch.” The outer surface is a tufted satin material.
MG New York’s holiday makeup set for Clinique incorporated a polyurethane padded case with a metal frame and an injection molded pallet.
Korba says, “These compacts combined injection molding, fabrics, and polyurethane wraps to provide elements of fashion and style.”
Kits are very popular for nails, too, according to Bottle Coatings’ Dhillon. “It’s becoming a trend,” he says. “People enjoy the smaller sizes and the idea of sampling a wide variety of colors. It’s all about increasing choices for the consumer.”
Decorative Techniques
From lipsticks to compacts, rhinestones to graphics, nothing adds instant pizazz to color cosmetics packages like embellishments, and suppliers are seeing a growing demand—and an upgrade—for decorative effects.
At 3C Inc., Della Pesca says decoration is becoming much more sophisticated.
“Brands are adding more color, more decoration. What was once one-pass deco is now two or three,” he says. “What was once silk screen is now heat transfer, etc.” He also says that colors of caps are being geared to attract more attention or to match printing on an automatic click pen or soft tube.
Topline’s Hutson says brands seem to be requesting more intricate graphic designs, which have resulted in the decorating process becoming more and more challenging. For example, Hutson says the compact for the new L’Oréal Color Riche Eyeshadow Quads, manufactured by Topline’s factory in Michigan, “features the very difficult process of hot foil stamping on a contoured surface; it had to be perfectly executed.”
Metals and Metallized Effects
Metallic effects have grown in popularity, from labels to primary containers.
“Even labels have become so much more sophisticated,” says Della Pesca. “For a silver look like metallization, we’ve gone from shiny silver metal to a metallized shiny silver to a label with a multi-color shiny finish.”
Kwapis, at Fusion Packaging, says metals offer an instant upgrade and attract consumers’ attention. “In decorating, aluminum, metallizing and hot stamping have been in high demand. Metallics in general have been a very popular decoration because they are an easy way to upgrade the overall look of a brand’s packaging. Shade windows and super clarified bottles continue to trend because they provide a true indicator of the product color, which is very critical to the overall perception of the product and is most often the reason for their purchase.”
At Anomatic Corporation, Tony Cecchinato, vice president of sales, says they are starting to see more requests to add metal to beauty products, especially mascara. He says there was a period where this was trending downward, but it’s shifted and begun to move in an upward direction for 2013. He explains that this is because “there are some design techniques that can’t be accomplished with plastic as they can with metal providing the pristine finish that anodizing does.”
The incorporation of metal on nail enamel products has also been a rising trend at Anomatic. “As manicures and pedicures continue to grow in popularity, products need to match the trend and as a result, prestige grows in this category,” says Cecchinato.
He says Anomatic has also been receiving requests to add decorative metal closures on packaging such as tubes. “It’s this higher, value-added decorating technique that we expect will continue to grow.”
A Colorful Future
With the trend toward beauty following fashion—and more and more designer runway shows scheduled during the year—color cosmetics brands and packaging suppliers will have to stay on their innovative toes.
NPD’s Grant says, “The connection of fashion trends with those in color cosmetics has never been more cemented. This heightened association of ‘of the moment’ fashion with beauty indicates that color cosmetics packaging will need to continue finding ways to showcase an ever-changing array of product types as the market moves even faster in translating the current fashions, textures and colors in ways that will engage consumers to want to experiment, play and indulge.”
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Confessions of a Color Cosmetics Packaging Junkie As a certifiable product junkie, I often buy beauty products just because of the packaging. After all, that is the first touch point between the product and the consumer. The packaging can influence the perception of the product’s performance and behavior enormously. I often conduct sensory testing with the same product tested blind in a jar versus a tube. The testers invariably swear they are completely different formulas. Here’s a quick glimpse at a few of my recent favorites: Packaging was the purchase driver in every case.
While it is an elegant formula, the package is the hook. This product would not seem as luxurious if it were dispensed from a traditional stock tube. L’Oréal Colour Riche Nail Lingerie These transparent films can be placed over nail lacquer, creating endless variations. The nail category continues to be hot and this is a great add-on. Too Faced 3-Way Lash Lining Tool Clarins actually launched this package last year in Europe in a limited edition. I spent hours looking for it and finally scored the last piece in a stock drawer in a Nocibé in Paris. It really does change the look of a liquid liner, as it can be stippled or drawn. Sephora Glitter Eyeliner and Mascara With a dozen irresistible colors, this liner/mascara combination takes eye makeup to another level. The mascara payoff wasn’t stellar, but the 2-in-1 package makes anyone feel like a makeup artist. Kevin Murphy Color Bug Still a bit challenging to find in the U.S., Australian hair stylist Kevin Murphy found a creative way to deal with messy hair chalk. Watch the YouTube video, after which you will want your very own. www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTpshDYqD0I
Karen Young is CEO, The Young Group. She was formerly vice president of marketing and advertising for Lancôme, and before that, spent 17 years at Estée Lauder, where she held a variety of executive positions, including director of color cosmetics. Since opening The Young Group, she has developed extensive color cosmetic and skin care lines for leading brands. |
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Everything’s Coming Up Color Here’s a look at a few of summer’s colorful packaging launches:
Two-in-one products are all the rage and Paul & Joe’s Limited Edition Eye Gloss & Lip Gloss Duos make summer beauty twice as much fun. Eye color on one side and lip color on another will have you ready for any outing at a moment’s notice.
What can be better than rich color and “age-defying ingredients” in a smooth and creamy formula presented in a sleek and sexy package with a convenient clear pushbutton design for easy shade identification. What’s more, the lipstick fits into the Mary Kay Compact and the Mary Kay Compact Pro.
Sometimes nothing says luxury like a sleek container with a black cap and an elegant name highlighted in golden script lettering. This is the case with Guerlain’s Gloss d’Enfer Maxi Shine, a collection of 1960s pinup girl-inspired lipglosses and nail lacquers. (HCP developed the luxury nail polish cap.)
Is it a gloss? A stain? A lipstick? Simple and sophisticated, Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture Vernis à Lèvres is described as “a technological breakthrough, a must-have lip product with an exceptional hold, boosting color and shine with one little wand.” The sleek black bottle features a color identification window and a “couture” applicator. |
