09.05.08
Beauty BRICs
Emerging markets in Brazil, Russia, India and China will play a key role in building an authentic global beauty brand perspective.
By Jonathan Ford, Pearlfisher
Where do we look next for beauty inspiration? Just a couple of months ago, I looked at the growing influence of the East on the West and the realization that the Western world is not necessarily dominating the global beauty market as it once did. However, I don’t think it’s just the Eastern countries that we need to watch. I believe that there are some key emerging markets and, in particular, the BRIC countries—Brazil, Russia, India and China—where the demand for, and stronger trade with, the global brand giants of the West is generating a greater confidence and potentially shaping the brand and design direction for a new global beauty brand perspective.
The media, the Internet and more travel mean that Western beauty brands are instantly recognizable and desirable in the BRICs. And, not a day goes by without news of the global beauty giants making further acquisitions and signing brand and distribution partnerships within these territories to meet the demand. But their growing presence and influence does mean that the BRIC beauty brand owners are using Western brands as a benchmark and wanting to compete with Western brand standards. There seems to be two schools of thought about whether the global giants will continue to dominate in
these markets and eclipse the aims of the territory-specific beauty brands or whether there will be a chance for these brands to also stamp their mark on the global beauty scene. I sit firmly in the second camp as I believe that these traditionally manufacturing-led countries will undoubtedly become more confident with their brand skills, invest in more brand creation and start to export their own brands
to the West.
Cocota Brazilian Beauty is a new distribution company that has just launched in the UK to act as an import service for Brazilian fashion and lifestyle brands. Cocota’s initial portfolio includes Brazil’s No. 1 nail polish brand Risqué and body care range Brazilian Fruit Cosmetics. Although Brazilian Fruit prides itself on a range of traditionally Brazilian ingredients and even offers a Caipirinha variant (sugar cane and lime without alcohol), the selling point is the all-natural ingredients, and the design of the range has not been changed for the UK market. The packaging for both Risqué and Brazilian Fruit is somewhat unadventurous and dated but they have a universal quality to them and this is probably a theme that we will initially see with some of the more established BRIC brands starting to come our way. They want to be expressive but, so far, have only learned to be expressive with Western values.
But this opening up of trade—and choice—will challenge the West to maintain new creative standards and ultimately the tables will be turned as we inevitably start looking to these countries for a sense of localized design identity plus inspiration.
Global Bazaar
Cultural difference is highly desirable. We are all seeking out the new from a veritable global melting pot. And, as the BRICs develop to become more accessible, interesting and desirable we will be looking to capture BRIC culture and buy into their cultural beauty offer.
On a macro level, Bollywood has overwhelmingly made its presence felt and “A Brazilian,” of course, is no longer just a native of Brazil. But, a more subtle cultural influence is also stealthily starting to infiltrate our shelves. Alongside the likes of Risqué and Brazilian Fruits, we are starting to see Western brands understanding the lure of the BRICs. Lancôme’s limited edition Brazilian Earth Colors Collection seemed to test the waters in trying something that was culturally different. The design was nothing to write home about, but the packaging made a concession to the earthy nature of the products by housing the eye shadow quad in a leather-tied wallet. The lipstick merely used the Beige Caracaï name to convey a sense of the exotic. The selling points were undoubtedly the creative force of supermodel Daria Werbowy and the fact that proceeds went to an arts center in Rio de Janeiro. Nail care brand OPI followed up on the success of its Russian Collection with the launch of its India Collection. Again, the cultural influence is not recognized through the packaging design per se and just uses naming to sell the culture—and colors—with such gems as Curry Up Don’t be Late, Get Me to the Taj on Time and I’m India Mood for Love. I think there are two points to make here. First, we understand why BRIC brands may try to express themselves through Western values, but we want them to be different and will want them to retain and express a local, quirky personality. Second, new brands and products trying to satisfy our desire for cultural difference need to find a way of embracing and visually communicating a true cultural as well as category message and not just bolt on a stereotypical cultural reference, name or descriptor as in the case of Lancôme and OPI.
From Chatter to Confidence
OPI, in particular, seems to be capitalizing on the current trend for chatty brands which use names and copy to convey product benefit, difference or off-the-wall philosophy. There is nothing wrong with creating a more friendly approach—especially when trying to smooth international relations—but it means that the visual design cues may become less significant. The BRICs obviously have some of the most diverse and difficult languages in the world and, although this is obviously a consideration, I think that the time has come to not rely on the pull of a different national language or a long-held generic idea of a country’s personality. Instead, we are anticipating the development of a new visual language—a visual language that draws on the color, smell, history and landscape of these countries as a way of integrating a truly authentic, rather than stereotypical, view of the culture into the brand.
These emerging markets have lived with cultural and political tension and, to make a difference, their people have had to be determined. They now have nothing to lose by using this tension and determination to foster a pioneering spirit and help create a new beauty language by harnessing this mindset in their brands. I think the result will be a trend for chatty brands replaced by culturally authentic brands with their souls laid bare and a desirable quiet confidence.
Beauty Building BRICs
Global parity and open trade will inevitably produce one economy. In response to this, online shopping and—in the BRIC countries, unorganized retail trade and shopping malls—will surely come more to the fore as the retail methods of choice. The notion of the traditional beauty shelf will disappear and visual design communication will become even more important as a way of creating standouts in what is destined to become a vibrant and diverse global beauty bazaar.
It is difficult to seek genuine inspiration from our own culture and, as we seek a new brand and design authority, these brave countries are set to become serious contenders in leading a new global beauty offensive; one which doesn’t necessarily offer a global or local consistency, but rather brands with a cultural soul and innovative and challenging design communication.
As a collective force, these countries have the power to lay down the building BRICs for the future face of beauty, and it is time to look at how our brands in the West are stacking up against their growing influence and inspiration.