For this year’s 17th edition of Cosmoprof North America (CPNA), held July 28-30 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas, the U.S. show put an emphasis on its bond with its “global cousins” in Bologna and Hong Kong, including a ramped-up emphasis on packaging. The introduction of Cosmopack, which Liza Rapay, the event’s new head of marketing, calls “the fastest growing segment of Cosmoprof” highlighted the entire supply chain of the cosmetics industry, from contract manufacturing to machinery, to primary and secondary packaging, ingredients and raw materials. Discover Pack, in a strategic area within Cosmopack, featured first-time exhibitors who were given the added benefit of face-to-face meetings with U.S. and international buyers.
The Factory, a popular attraction at Bologna and Hong Kong, made its U.S. premiere with the production of the Pure Factory “Clean Beauty Face Highlighter.” This project recreates the entire manufacturing process of a cosmetic product live, thanks to the participation of a selection of Cosmopack exhibitors. The formula was by Ancorotti; primary packaging by Toly; brushes and pouches by Pennelli Faro; machinery by Co. Pack; and ribbons by Nastritex.
In keeping with the current sustainable beauty industry trends, the highlighter was made of a clean formula, free of toxic ingredients; created without using animal-derived ingredients and with a high percentage of vegan-derived raw materials. To eliminate waste, it was packaged in a refillable compact.
From refillables to biodegradables, sustainability played an overarching role on the show floor, impacting packaging to finished products.
Speaking to Beauty Packaging on the show floor, Sara Jindal, senior innovation & insights analyst, Mintel (see video interview at link below), said: “Green is now affecting every aspect of the beauty supply chain. Brands are now facilitating the process for consumers as to refillables, recyclables, etc. The consumer is driving the behavior.”
And with brands’ quests for speed-to-market and seamless production in high demand, turnkey services were touted throughout Cosmopack. In fact, a number of leading beauty industry suppliers made a point of announcing that they are rebranding or redirecting their efforts to accommodate this undeniable “future” of the cosmetics world.
New Directions in Turnkey
HCT Group held shop in an eye-popping, attention-getting, large area on the show floor. Its blackened booth walls portrayed burned-out destruction with chalky messages, leading to a rebirth of Beauty. The global supplier is adding increased attention to its turnkey offerings, as well as environmentally responsible packaging from biodegradable and recyclable compacts to synthetic brushes that imitate the finest animal hairs. The theme was in tune with a three-part story that will continue at Cosmoprof Hong Kong and Bologna. The idea: The full-service global turnkey supplier says it is “wiping the slate clean”—and evolving with new clean ingredients and launching a patented eco-program (EMA – Eco Modern Approach)—expanding in formulation, packaging and brushes. At Cosmoprof NA, they showcased a color collection that adheres to a clean beauty list. HCT illustrated its new innovation for clean beauty formulation with its Vegas 2019 collection. This collection utilizes root extracts and gemstone actives to help strengthen skin and reduce wrinkles.
Also front and center at HCT were double-duty formulations with multiple benefits—color and skincare combined for less steps in the daily ritual. Showcases exhibited new designs such as refillables, mono materials, PCR—all which have emerged from testing and running lots of trials.
HCT Group’s Forward Pump pairs an innovative facial sculpting gel and an intuitive design with HCT’s globally patented Cooling Tip Technology. Apply the product in one simple step: Press forward to dispense the product, and smooth into skin with the pump’s cooling applicator. This pump is ideal for eye and skincare formulas.
Fusion Packaging (see video interview at link below) was celebrating its 15th anniversary, revealing a new logo and a new direction—emphasizing its new identity as FusionPKG and FusionPKG BeautyLab, and drawing attention to its full-service offerings, including its recent investment in a color cosmetic formulation company.
With FusionPKG lab, co-CEO Derek Harvey said their beauty division “can develop product and packaging in tandem with the additional benefit of increased speed to market.”
At Cosmoprof NA, FusionPKG unveiled several launches, including a lineup of CBD skincare, a 360-degree approach to clean and transparent beauty, and a patent-pending innovative compact, in which the brush is integrated into the cover.
WWP, a newly rebranded veteran beauty industry packaging supplier that emphasizes turnkey solutions, showcased three new cosmetic collections at CPNA. Lumiere is described as “a romantic collection” consisting of a variety of cosmetic and skincare products and is designed to increase emotional wellbeing with anti-pollution and super food blend ingredients. REI is a minimalistic collection that celebrates mature skin and is comprised of dual-action products infused with peptides to firm, plump and hydrate. Arcana houses formulas containing functional ingredients in packages with “elevated basics” and is inspired by gender-neutral products and formulas.
Known as a high-end supplier, Cosmoprof NA first-time exhibitor QRS (see video interview at link below) is taking the full-service turnkey route. Clifford M. Davis, CEO, told Beauty Packaging about their “new slant.” He said they started as packaging experts, then became a turnkey resource supplier—for products from cosmetics to fragrance—and using materials from paper to glass; and components from stock to custom. They moved to more turnkey items in fragrance and color, combining stock and custom—and “by capitalizing on the experience of its management team” are now a full turnkey resource. “We’re all about service,” said Davis.
With the beauty market following several specific paths, some suppliers have developed specialty turnkey lines.
For instance, the team at Cosmopak has created a full line of turnkey CBD products. Cosmopak’s turnkey cosmetics and skincare collection featuring cannabis includes makeup brushes, color cosmetics, skincare formulas and textures packed with non-psychoactive full-spectrum CBD.
In an expanded booth replete with a couch and lots of display cases, Allta International (see video interview at BeautyPackaging.com) adapted a new look to call attention to its turnkey offerings. David Berkman, president & CEO focused on two new turnkey products: a biodegradable glitter eye shadow and a new matte (smoky-foggy) lipstick oil palette. MOQ is 5,000 pieces, and approval to delivery takes six weeks.
At CPNA, Pennelli Faro presented “Fless All Over,” which the Italian manufacturer describes as “the first patented flexible brush that naturally follows face contours and intuitively fits the hand, facilitating the gesture of makeup application.” Once worn, the product becomes an extension of your finger allowing you to follow the face profile and the eye area in a very precise and natural way. Fless is characterized by a compact, soft and modulated micro-tuft that not only facilitates the application of the makeup, but also brings a pleasant massage effect. Its drop-shape enables simple and spontaneous gestures, making it versatile and multi-functional.
FM Brush used a 1920s-themed booth to speak of its U.S. heritage and multi-generational ownership. Now operated by the family’s 4th generation, the Queens, NY-based company is celebrating its 90th anniversary of manufacturing in the U.S. Jacqueline Mink Cooper, director of retail sales, FM Brush, told Beauty Packaging that they’ve been manufacturing synthetic brushes since the 1960s, as well as fine art brushes, and blend their own synthetic materials in house. She said they try to replicate the fibers in a cruelty-free vegan material with similar characteristics and performance. The company started in the 1920s when they saw a need for domestic manufacturing, added Mink Cooper.
Viva IML Tubes has become multi-directional—expanding its packaging assortment beyond tubes. At Cosmoprof NA, “leveraging their decades of expertise in injection-molding,” the supplier launched its first injection-molded deodorant stick that is “recycle-ready.”
Viva IML’s Bruno Lebeault, marketing director, North America, said: “The Stick has distinctive shelf appeal with spectacular graphics and the full surface, 360° decoration of an in-mold label. Why use stickers when you can decorate the whole stick?” Made with polypropylene, with the option to add PCR, Lebeault said this stick is both striking and sustainable.
A new prestige thick wall PET jar from Viva is “clear, like glass with no crystallization, or completely opaque.” Both options are recycle-ready PET (jar) and Polypropylene (lid), and available in any color.
At SamHwa, Philip Cho, country manager, showed Beauty Packaging multi-use ampoules ideal for serums. He explained that plastic ampoules are less expensive to fill—and you don’t have to worry about breakage. Available in 5-,10-, 15- and 30ml, SamHwa utilizes a bi-injection technique. Press on the bottom for “very accurate, precise dosage, application.” The user can close it and it’s reusable. It can also have different caps. Also available at SamHwa: lipstick, foundation, concealer—all in airtight packaging.
Premi returned to Cosmoprof NA with new packaging options, including their latest innovation Airglass, a glass line that introduces “cutting-edge packaging” with airless technology.
Premi also took home a Cosmopack Award for Sustainability, for their Refill Collection. This award follows its win at Cosmopack in Bologna, in the Packaging & Design category.
Lumson, known as a leading supplier for Skincare and Cosmetics packaging, was highlighting lipsticks at Cosmoprof NA. The Italian supplier’s lipstick range is available in new finishes and colors.
Emanuele Mazzei, CEO, Lumson USA, said they are extending their color assortment into lipsticks and becoming more qualified in the color segment (see video interview at link below), with a wide assortment of shapes, sizes characteristics, different finishes including full flocking, and a wide range of personalization options. Two eco-friendly options are available: 100% PP lipstick, completely recyclable, and 100% PLA completely biodegradable.
Extensive deco options are all done in-house—and all with quick turnaround time to boot. Lumson, too, is refocusing their business—moving toward developing more sustainable products. To this end, Mazzei says they have begun working from the end point, by using the consumer’s perspective, in order to create the “next generation of products,” thinking about the positive contribution luxury packaging can bring to brands and ultimately to the environment.
HCP featured packaging and decorating solutions for skincare, color cosmetics and fragrance, with innovation for mascara brushes, lip gloss and eyeliners.
Exhibition highlights included Azure Jars, which feature a luxurious and unique design that appears to suspend the inner jar within a thick-walled outer-jar, and Bleu, a Radii Rectangular Midi Palette with a range of decorative designs in blue hues. The Fluted Collection is described as “an evolution of popular stock packs with an ultra-chic fluted design.” Each pack can be color-matched, sprayed or metallized to add an extra touch of luxury. The Radii Square Pressed Powder compact is now available with a decorative top-plate featuring a stylish fluted design. The Fusion Mini and trimline lipsticks are developed with an elegant fluted design to the cap and base. The Fusion Glass lip gloss is available with a fluted cap option; It’s ideal for brands looking for an extra premium feel.
East Hill Industries showcased their latest collection of elegant droppers, available in a wide range of options including glass, airless and non-airless. This year the supplier also featured Green Tubes, with plant-based resin; they are available in-stock for customers to purchase. Also of interest were 100% biodegradable jars made from a wood-based resin. The first generation will work with non-water-based formulas. A second generation is expected in the 3rd quarter and will work with water-based formulas.
One highlight at Nest Filler was their triangle and square airless pumps and jars, available in multiple sizes. Irene Kim, project manager, explained: “In the past, if a non-cylinder airless component was used, the piston would create a gap when pressing the actuator. Therefore, it could create leakage issues because the piston was not moving up in one smooth motion. We have made it so that the piston is uniform to the shape of the bottle that prevents leakage. This is a unique and innovative way that a square and triangle piston can be used in comparison to a traditional circular piston.”
Lady Burd’s booth contained an array of products including lashes and lip balm. Their new variety of lashes feature “high-quality synthetic fibers designed to create a perfect eye-opening accent to any makeup look.” Tinted Lip Balm treats lips to hours of vitamin-rich moisture with a sheer hint of color.
Newly launched “ready-to-go clean beauty” formulations and innovative packaging, including sustainable solutions, were features at Roberts Beauty—where there was also an emphasis on turnkey solutions. A 360-degree flex eyeliner rotates in all directions for ease of use and precise application. The Dropstick combines a traditional round with a teardrop shape to reach all areas; it includes hidden propel/repel dial technology. The supplier has continued with new shapes of their Brickstick, adding weights and metal over shells for a more luxe version. A full range of refillables includes palettes, tubes, brush powder, lipsticks and airless pens.
Machinery & Materials
NastriTex presented TechMix, a multiple layer ribbon made by the coupling of two different pressing materials.
According to Nastritex, “In order to bring awareness to the immense value that lies in the formulation technology and packaging design you must take into consideration the new technologies that lie underneath a wonderful powder compact, even when the technology is held in a pressing textile. This is an essential production consumable useful to filter and pressing powders during packaging activity, during the creation of packaging design. TechMix, the only one in the world, is the result of a coupling technology which allows the combination of even deeply different materials; different performances in only one ribbon. Only if you know what is behind you, can you go beyond.”
GTO is a leading manufacturer of pad, screen and hot foil printing machines. Headquartered in Italy and with offices in the U.S. and Asia, GTO has been servicing the cosmetics industry for the past 30 years. They provide printing solutions “for any design in any shape and on any material.”
Green Packaging Specialties
As evidenced previously in this article, things have evolved in the industry to the extent that there’s no longer a real need to call out suppliers with green packaging, as most offer at least some choices—though some specialize in this area.
Berry Global (see video interview at link below) featured a full array of sustainable bottles, jars, tubes and closures including their newest HDPE bottle offerings and PCR extruded tube offerings. These are the latest additions to Berry Global’s Verdant product line, designed specifically for the beauty and personal care industry. HDPE bottles in a variety of sizes and styles are now available with 10% to 100% PCR content, along with extruded tubes with up to 25% PCR.
Mike Cabanski, sales director, Beauty & Personal Care Division, Berry Global, told Beauty Packaging the Verdant line is built on three pillars: sustainability, connectivity and cost innovation.
Baralan’s team was at Cosmoprof NA, presenting a number of innovative packaging solutions, including a wide range of standard glass and plastic containers for color cosmetics, fragrance and skincare.
These are all easily customizable, and can be widely distributed, globally. Tom Harris, key account manager, East Coast, Baralan, said the company is undergoing “a sustainable packaging evolution,” identifying sustainable materials “that respect the conditions of recyclability and biodegradability through a responsible choice by selecting biopolymers that derive from renewable resources and natural materials, not related to the food chain.”
Baralan has presented a new line of bioplastic items produced by a biopolymer. This biopolymer is made by a combination of natural fibers and waste from a specific manufacturing process. Harris explained that biopolymers can be manufactured to be either recyclable or biodegradable. The range is presented in its neutral color from the original biopolymer raw material, to respect the overall campaign on sustainability, however it also includes the possibility of obtaining colored variants, as well as an expanding array of decorating options, based on customer needs and requests. Baralan is able to use this biopolymer to produce certain standard items with injection molding technology. The items are produced in the Group’s manufacturing plant, Labor Plast, and presented in four product categories: sticks, jars and compacts, overcaps/overpumps and screw caps —the best accessories also for Baralan’s glass bottles and jars.
Plastube (see video interview at link below) offered a variety of eco-responsible tubes at Cosmoprof NA. Rather than reclaiming plastics that have washed up on the beach, Plastube has established a program to stop the litter from entering the water in the first place. Their Oceanbound Tubes are sourced from cities or areas at risk of polluting the oceans. The supplier’s EcoPrime Tubes are made from curbside and commercial collection. “Green” fliptop caps are also available.
APC was rolling out PCR lines and “educating consumers on the reality of what’s sustainable—and what’s not,” said Shanna Massey Johns, director of business development at APC Packaging. New molds for child-resistant droppers were available “as CBD is taking over the world,” commented Johns.
Unique Distinctions, from Canada, showcased their packaging capabilities as well as their innovative and sustainable packaging solutions. Some of the highlights from the booth included ECO POD, post-consumer resin (PCR) packages, an eco-series line, and sugarcane resin tubes.
Label Technology (see video interview at link below) also highlighted several sustainable solutions for cosmetic applications, including sachets printed on sustainable materials and a recyclable multi-wipe pouch with resealable label. Another small pouch is compostable.
McKernan Packaging Clearing House (see video interview at link below) displayed a wide assortment of packaging options. Jim Lemmons, general manager, said they supply 6-7,000 SKUs at any time—and ship in 24-48 hours. Low MOQs are available. Lemmons told Beauty Packaging he’s seen a trend toward glass for its eco-friendly recyclability. “Glass is trending. It’s really starting to take hold in the market,” he said.
APR Packaging reported lots of people looking for CBD packaging as well as cosmetics containers. The supplier was offering a new sampling kit for CBD oils; each vial holds enough for several weeks.
Also interesting were blotting papers infused with color cosmetics. APR offers a complete stock line warehoused in Easton, PA. Minimum order quantity is a single case. Inventory includes a complete line of rose gold airless packages, dropper jars, jars with bamboo caps, and more.
At the end of the show, Liza Rapay, head of marketing, Cosmoprof North America (see video interview at link below), commented: “It exceeded our expectations—from the exhibitors to the quality of the visitors, we couldn’t have put on a better show. The launch of Cosmopack was a huge success. Our CosmoTalks attendance was record-breaking. The installation of CosmoTrends was well-visited, and we added another session of the CosmoTalks presentation due to the high demand. The Buyer program is stronger than ever. We’ve also surpassed last year’s Boutique program, selling out most of the products by the beginning of Day 2. The most rewarding of all was receiving notes from attendees and exhibitors alike thanking us and letting us know that they are looking forward to next year.”
Check out these video interviews, live from Cosmoprof NA:
Allta Highlights Two New Formulations
Berry Global: Packaging Based on 3 Pillars
Fusion: coming soon
ICMAD: coming soon
Mintel’s Sara Jindal on Green Beauty and Packaging
Label Technology Specializes in Flexible Films
On the Cosmoprof NA Show Floor with Liza Rapay
A Huge Inventory and No Lead Time at McKernan
Lumson: coming soon
A Huge Inventory and No Lead Time at McKernan
Plastube Highlights Recyclable HDPE Tubes
QRS: A Full Turnkey Supplier
VSAR Resources: A Focus on Sampling
Direct-to-Shape Digital Deco at Velox