Collagen in mascara, CC cream in facial foundations, lipgloss with hydrating benefits: These are just a few examples of products that women are adding to their beauty repertoire as cosmetic formulations get increasingly sophisticated.

Open-sell cosmetic environments have made standout packaging more crucial than ever.

Sales of color cosmetics are on the rise, boosted by trends spreading from multifunctional skincare products such as alphabet creams, and the airless packaging that keeps scientifically advanced formulations fresh and usable to the last drop. In addition, the category’s growth may also stem from the popularity of nail color as a form of self-expression. While pops of color can instantly elevate a mood and make a statement, consumers are also favoring lip and eye products that offer dual benefits similar to what they have come to expect in foundations and skincare.

In fact, recent data from Mintel Beauty & Personal Care revealed a key trend set to impact global beauty consumers in 2014, which they have named “Mixologiste.” The report said “blurred lines between beauty technology are becoming increasingly common, with overlaps between skincare, hair care and color cosmetics.”

Dior Airflash CC Primer exemplifies consumers’ preference formultifunctional color cosmetic products.

According to Jane Henderson, global president of Mintel’s Beauty and Personal Care division: “Mixologiste is fast becoming the stand-out trend that spans all beauty and personal care categories. This is a key mega trend, in development for the last year or so, but we are set to see it really accelerate in 2014. While manufacturers have worked with multifunctionality for a number of years, we are now seeing them take inspiration from completely different categories to create new products and marketing messages. The huge success of BB creams has led manufacturers to think about how they can build on their existing portfolios and add excitement to sometimes saturated sectors. New combinations will continue to evolve, resulting in new products, packaging, marketing and merchandising. This will add a new sense of excitement to the market and will drive innovation in the year ahead.”

The research firm says as many as 70% of U.S. women expressed an interest in multifunctional lip products, while 65% showed interest in multifunctional facial coverage products, such as those that combine the benefits of foundation and concealer.

Outside of the U.S., in China, Mintel found almost half of Chinese makeup users were interested in trying new products with multifunctionality.

Preferences such as these have given rise to a rapid expansion in makeup launches for face, eyes and lips.

Karen Grant, vice president and beauty analyst, The NPD Group—and a member of Beauty Packaging’s Board of Advisors, backs up the consumer preference for multifunctional color cosmetic products. She says alphabet creams are still growing, up 43% for the first quarter of 2014.So, too, are facial primers, which were up 12%. Grant says items that provided an illumination/radiance were up 13%. She cited Dior Airflash CC Primer as a premium example: “It is a mix of all three things in an innovative spray form.” Grant also said that Lip Color continues to be a leader, up 6% for Q1 2014. Eyebrow is also seeing extremely high growth, up 26%.

HCT’s double-ended tottle offers dispensing and application in a sleek two-in-one package.

IRI data (which analyzes total U.S. multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club & dollar retail chains), for the 52 weeks ending March 23, 2014, shows that eye cosmetics were the strongest category sales-wise ($1,967,935,000); followed by facial ($1,842,871,000); nail ($1,600,858,000); and lip ($741,345,900). While nail showed a decline of 2.63%, facial sales and eye sales tied for the largest gain, at 1.55% over a year ago. Lip gained .33%.

Overall, according to findings from Euromonitor, retail sales of color cosmetics increased by 5% in 2012 to reach $11.5 billion. L’Oréal USA leads the color cosmetics category, with a 23% value share in 2012.

Packaging Keeps Pace

With so many color cosmetics products—multifunctional or otherwise—jostling for attention, packaging often provides the determining factor when it comes to standing out from the crowd and encouraging purchases.

Beauty Packaging spoke with a number of industry suppliers about what trends they are currently seeing from brands, and how they’re keeping up with producing packaging that will satisfy consumers looking for both functionality and fashion.

One leading trend noted is transparency in packaging, which has become a key attribute for time-strapped consumers who want to be able to view many shades at a glance, again similar to the experience of choosing a nail polish.

Joycos Ltd, air cushion compacts represent a leading trend in packaging for color cosmetics.

Jim Farley, VP of global business development at World Wide Packaging, says, “Continued demand for function innovation prevails in the color cosmetics space. Shade windows, shade examinable packaging, any type of package that shows limited product visibility for the consumer to view prior to opening has been a demand—trendy and desirable.”

Jackie Paterno, sales director, HCT Packaging, notes the importance of versatility, saying: “Consumers have always expected their formulations to be multipurpose, but now they are coming to expect versatility from their packaging as well. As an example, she says, “Our double-ended tottle offers dispensing and application in a sleek two-in-one package.” The product flows through one side, and the other side has an implement that is used to apply the product with an expert tool especially designed for the formulation.

Applicators have become highly specialized. Paterno explains: “The variety of tips and implements that can be used is endless—Surlyn tips, metal tips, brushes, sponges.All are custom-designed for the optimum formulation application.”

Seacliff’s new patent pending airtight compact—BeautiLock—can be used with solvent- and water-based products such as eye gel liners, concealers, cream lipstick and water-based powders.

April Vignone, president of Trendsetters, a division of Verla International Ltd., also notes the tie between applicators and cosmetics. She says innovative packaging with unique applicators and interesting dispensing systems [are on trend] to make products more user friendly.”

On the formulation side, Vignone says there are significant cosmetic trends designed to enrich women’s lives “shaping beauty as they discover new beauty concepts, such as long wear with exceptional textures with a weightless feel on the skin that eliminate trade-offs in wearing high-performance cosmetics.” She says there is also a growing demand in the bridal industry where no expenses are spared. “Products here are specifically designed to create flawless complexions for hours and hours of beautiful perfection without complicated measures.”

A changing retail environment has also had a powerful influence on cosmetics packaging. At Fusion, director of marketing Jessica Cahalen, says, “With open-sell cosmetic environments becoming more popular, packaging is more crucial than ever. Not only does the package need to contain and protect the formula, but it also has to be eye-catching, memorable, and promote the benefits in order to sell the product and build brand recognition.”

Compacts that hold cosmetic products from foundation to eye shadow—and which are extremely portable—have been clicking open more often in the past year or so, especially as packaging technology has emerged to keep these palettes hygienic and good to the last swipe.

Baralan USA/Arrowpak’s double-ended rollerball package can house two lipglosses, two fragrances—or a combination of the two.

Soon Kim, CEO of Joycos Ltd, exporters of airless, diptube bottles and compacts, tells Beauty Packaging, “Air cushion compacts are the trend we see in packaging for color cosmetics.”

Similarly, Vonda Simon, owner SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories, says, “The trends I see in color cosmetic packaging are unique delivery systems and performance enhanced packaging.” She cites SeaCliff’s new patent pending airtight compact—BeautiLock. “This custom compact can be used with solvent- and water-based products such as eye gel liners, concealers, cream lipstick and water-based powders.” She says the benefits in packaging that brand manufacturers are now seeking are maintaining and preserving the longevity and benefits of the products once the component is opened and exposed to air.

The evolution of efficacious formulas continues to motivate suppliers to find new ways to protect sensitive ingredients.

David Greco, vice president of sales, East Coast, HCT Packaging, says cosmetics with more clinical benefits are on the rise.

So, too, are natural and organic color cosmetics, according to John Pyrzenski, executive vice president, sales and marketing at Quality Resourcing Services (QRS), who says their increase in popularity requires packaging suppliers to focus on preservation of formulation. Airtight and airless components are rising in demand, and the supplier’s aim is having the ability to differentiate aesthetics and offer uniqueness without significant cost impact.”

Sandra Hutson, director of sales and marketing, for Topline Products, agrees, saying, “Airtight packaging [is a growing trend], as the popularity of long-wear and water-based formulations remains strong.”

On the design side, Darren Eade, vice president of sales, Kemas, says, “One of the more common trends Kemas is seeing today is packaging becoming more sleek and refined. The goal is to provide a less bulky, lighter component to the consumer so that she can carry it easily in her handbag and not feel that she’s being weighed down. A heavier package has always been perceived as more luxurious, so the challenge in this is trying to maintain the luxuriousness of a package after excessive weight from the design has been removed.”

Baralan USA/Arrowpak has just introduced a streamlined, lightweight double-ended rollerball package with two glass bottles anchored in a plastic sleeve, with screw-on caps on each end. Jim Slowey, vice president of sales and marketing, says the versatile, portable solution can house two lipglosses, two fragrances—or a combination of the two. It’s available in a variety of finishes, including metallization, and can be decorated in a number of ways; the caps can even be a different color than the body.

In another nod to ease of use and portability, Michael Salemi COO, The Packaging Company, says, “We are finding that foundations and cheek/blush are moving to stick form (twist-up packaging) and moving away from tubes, bottles and compacts.” He says it’s a great concept for those on the go, as it requires only one’s fingertips to apply color, and “is more practical than having to carry a brush around…” He adds: “Multi-purpose sticks allow for easy matching, blending, and application of color to one’s face. Luxurious, simplified, and elegantly designed, the sticks are perfect for carrying to work or to a party.”

Which Category Holds the Bulk of Launches

Here, the suppliers we polled turned up answers across the beauty board, but many comment that lip and eye are near equal partners. In some cases, packages have been designed to work with a variety of products.

Many agreed with global brand president of MAC Cosmetics, Karen Buglisi Weiler, who, at a recent CEW event (please see www.beautypackaging.com for full story), said lipstick and lipgloss are especially hot right now. Others were adamant that foundation is covering more ground than ever, while others didn’t blink at insisting that the eyes have it.

World Wide Packaging developed a lipstick case complete with a mirror.

Rightly, Eade, from Kemas says, “The answer to this question would differ depending on who you talk to. From Kemas’s perspective we’re seeing more of a push toward lip products leading the way. There are a few reasons behind that push and they are 1) Consumers will likely always have one or two lip products in their handbag, whether that’s color or gloss; and 2) The formulas are rapidly changing, therefore, the packaging needs to change with them. At this point in time, packaging doesn’t exist for some of the radical changes in lip formulas so that upward trend in new functional designs and form of application will continue.”

Kim, CEO of Joycos Ltd, sticks with facial cosmetics. “Among the categories,” he says, “foundation is still the strongest. “

Vignone, of Verla International, comments on the slight slack in nail sales being shifted to other areas. “Nails have been growing strong for the last 8 years, and now the eye category is continuing to grow with lips following close behind,” she says. In addition, Vignone says the face category overall has seen an upswing with products such as primers with multifunctional benefits that blur fine lines and wrinkles and create a perfect complexion.

Multifunctional lip and eye packaging is where World Wide Packaging’s Farley sees growth. “Lip and eye packaging continue to lead the pack in terms of demand,” he says, “with multi-use or multifunction packaging being the leader.” He says lipstick cases with mirrors, double-ended lipgloss and mascara and a variety of functional options are also in play this year.

“For my clients, it is Eyes,” says HCT’s Greco, while HCT’s Paterno sees activity in Eye and Lip, saying, “These are the two biggest areas that need to be fed innovation.

“Our double-ended package is so versatile it can be used for a variety of eye and lip formulations—from cream eye shadows to eye primers to lip scrubs and lip glosses. It even crosses over into skincare.”

At SeaCliff, Simon also says the leading categories are Lips and Mascara. However, she says Lips are moving away from lipgloss and more toward lipstick/gloss/stain/ all in one, along with long-wearing benefits: lip products that apply like a gloss, wear like a stain, with coverage like a lipstick.She says that with BeautiLock, Seacliff’s new airtight compact, a long-wearing crème lipstick with volatiles such as shea butter and amino acids can be added as benefits to the product.” Mascara, says Simon, is still a leading category with brands looking for more and more length and volume.

Pyrzenski of QRS, notes, “When evaluating the pipeline of new launches, as consumers tend to be less loyal or more liberal in their willingness to try new brands in the Lip and Eye category, this leads to a majority of flanker, holiday and one-off programs targeting these two segments. It may not be leading in sustainable business, but it does represent the majority of development.”

HCT added ribs to the cover of a Zamac lipstick for a textural effect.

Designs on Lip Packaging

What’s the latest when it comes to packaging for lip products?

At HCT, Greco says, “We recently did a Zamac lipstick with ribs in the cover to give an effect. The product also displayed decoration of gold and gunmetal with embossing on the cover.

Flickable’s Luxe Lip Gloss, produced by Topline, is “a fun, flirty, adorable lipgloss with a twist,” says Hutson. “The unique, retro package design transports you back to your childhood memories. The ‘lollipop’ shape helps to communicate the sweet, irresistible flavors of the lipgloss.” Hutson says the design required a strong technical mastery to make the lollipop shape a functional lipgloss component. Normally, the lollipop handle is too ergonomically small to generate the torque needed to open and close the product. Topline’s solution, she says, “was to design the package with a grip area that mimics the twisted cellophane you would find on a lollipop, while doubling as an aesthetically pleasing way to cleverly hide the threaded neck of the bottle. The Flickable package perfectly communicates the brand message.”

At QRS, Pyrzenski, says Laqa & Co. challenged QRS to supply a fully customized mini chubby lip pencil (2g). This full turnkey program, which consisted of color matching the base of the mechanism to the bullet shades, was fulfilled in six months. According to Pyrzenski, “the unique size required tooling bullet molds, and the presentation case was also developed specifically for the size of the package.”

The Eyes Have It

Topline’s package for Flickable’s Luxe Lip Gloss required a strong technical mastery to make the lollipop shape a functional lipgloss component.

Fusion tapped into the eye category recently with Elizabeth Arden for the brand’s 2014 Summer Escape Color Collection. Cahalen says Fusion provided packaging for the trio of Pure Finish Cream Eyeshadows using their 5ml Ice jars. The limited edition jars featured a custom navy closure with an intricate rope design that tied in with the collection’s nautical theme. “It was important that the injected color and decoration of the closure be on-point,” she says, “so that the jars matched with the other color products featured in the collection.”

Hutson also says eyes seem to be a hot category at the moment, especially mascara with its focus on volumizing formulations and brushes that help to maximize the plumping effect. “The outer shape of the mascara package can also help communicate the product’s volumizing effect, as seen by an increasing number of oversized packages hinting to the consumer that the contents can deliver super-sized lashes.”

Steadying the Foundation

With foundation—in its many forms—gaining ground, suppliers are busy covering their bases with new offerings for brands.

Laqa & Co. challenged QRS to supply a fully customized mini chubby lip pencil, which consisted of color matching the base of the mechanism to the bullet shades.

Fusion Packaging recently collaborated with Urban Decay to design a customized sifter jar for their Naked Skin Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder. Cahalen says it was important that the look of the package be uniform with the existing line of Naked Skin products, and it also needed to work with the ultra-fine, thinly milled powder formula.

“We mimicked the aesthetic based on the Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup we had previously packaged in our 30ml Allure bottle, using the brand’s signature gunmetal on the vacuum metallized closure,” says Cahalen. “We achieved a glass-like look with the gorgeous double-walled jar that allows the powder to be clearly and accurately displayed. To differentiate this sifter jar from others on the market, we created a patent-pending multi-tiered distribution plate featuring the debossed UD logo. We strategically engineered the

Fusion Packaging recently collaborated with Urban Decay to design a customized sifter jar for their Naked Skin Ultra Definition Loose Finishing Powder.

depth of the logo and size and shape of the holes so that when the product dispenses, the logo remains on display and reinforces the brand name.”

Amy Zunzunegui. SVP product development for Urban Decay, says, “The jar was a perfect fit for the existing Naked Skin franchise, and we liked that it had the thick walls and vacuum metallized accents.” Zunzunegui says she doesn’t think this type of sifter has been done before. “It is one of those nice little surprises we like to give the customer—something unexpected,” she says.

As stated, there is also a growing trend for foundations to be housed in compacts—and even here, there is a wide variety of options.

Kim, CEO of Joycos, says, “Compared to existing compacts, the air cushion compact is revolutionary and it’s new to customers overseas. In Korea and Asia, air cushion compacts are famous and widely used. Till now liquid and creamy foundation were filled in jars or airless bottles. But now with air cushion compacts, we can fill liquid type foundation into compacts.” He says the air cushion prevents the formula from drying out.

Simon, of SeaCliff Beauty Packaging & Laboratories says her company’s new patent-pending airtight compact—BeautiLock—will also change the market. “It will be introduced to the industry shortly,” she says, “and we are excited about its role in new product development and obliterating volatile ingredients from drying out.We think it will change the compact and palette market.”

Favorite Materials

The Packaging Company’s aluminum packaging for Vapour’s cheek tints, eye products and lipstick cases, features four different sized cups.

Brands and suppliers have been experimenting with various materials to house color cosmetics, from compatibility, cost and aesthetics perspectives.

Fusion’s Cahalen says polypropylene continues to be a popular choice for foundation packages, “not only because of the compatibility with the formula, but also from a cost perspective.” For example, she says the Scene bottle Fusion launched earlier this year—and which recently was awarded the 2014 Cosmetic Package of the Year by the Institute of Packaging Professionals (IoPP) AmeriStar competition—“beautifully marries two resins,” a polypropylene barrel with a crystal clear PCTG base. She says “This package essentially offers the best of both worlds when it comes to packaging materials. You get the glass-like clarity from the PCTG shade base, with the decoration compatibility and cost-effectiveness of PP.”

At Topline, Hutson sees a trend with the use of transparent materials and thick walls that maximize color impact. She points to Topline’s package for the new Maybelline Color Elixir lipgloss that features a unique two-part bottle where the inner section is shaped like a lipstick bullet and is color matched perfectly to each shade for maximum visual impact on the shelf. She says, “With its thick-walled base and anodized, shiny silver metal cap, the Maybelline package has the look of a chic lipstick, but it’s the package’s see-through color that really captures the consumer’s attention.” (See Beauty Packaging’s story from L’Oréal’s David Wolbach, director cosmetics packaging, on the development of Maybelline Color Elixir; beautypackaging.com/articles/2013/12/innovative-packaging-the-brightest-bulbs-on-the-sh.)

Aluminum also holds a prominent place in cosmetics packaging. Michael Salemi COO, The Packaging Company, says aluminum has been increasing in demand as it is recyclable and gives the product higher perceived value. The company’s aluminum packaging for Vapour’s cheek tints, eye products and lipstick cases, features four different sized cups.

Verla designs innovative filling concepts, which they say leads to increased impulse purchases.

Kim, of Joycos, says customers favor PP containers for foundation and concealer products. “The most important point when selecting containers is the reaction between the formula and containers. By using PP containers, we can minimize the reaction between the two,” says Kim.

The containers are also refillable. Kim says, “Compared to the usage of bottle type containers (30ml), the amount we can fill for compact containers (12-15g) is very small. And for this purpose we use inner containers (for filling the formula) that can be removed from the container. After the customers finish using the compact they can buy the refillable containers.”

Whatever the material of choice, Verla’s Vignone, notes a trend toward stock packaging. “With the economy still being a challenge, many companies are looking at stock packaging and embellishing with several decorating techniques to create one-of-a-kind aspects.” She says this is very important, especially when the objective is to keep new mold costs within budget objectives. “Double-ended and multi-product packaging help to give value and create a system easy for the consumer to use,” she says.

Deco Makes the Difference

Sue Pickford, creative marketing manager at HCP Packaging UK Ltd, also talks about the demand for stock packaging embellished with decorative effects.

She tells Beauty Packaging that HCP’s “Innovation Committee” has recognized a rising trend toward the soothing and inspiring influence of nature, which inspired HCP to bring a little bit of nature to packaging, with some “spectacular water effects” using two different methods: 3-D droplets and Gelology.

HCT’s Greco says he has seen increased use of heat transfer labels, as well as more intricate silkscreen and hot stamp artwork.

Metallization in mass and masstige [packaging] or the use of metal in prestige continues to have universal appeal, as well as decoration and surface treatments that offer various textures and tactile sensations, according to Pyrzenski, of QRS.

Color Optics by Arcade recently produced a tiny handout sampling box for Urban Decay, called Seven Days of Shadow.

At The Packaging Company, Salemi says reverse oxidation has been a favorite printing method for aluminum components, to create shiny, clean (and permanent) decorations. He adds that as far as embellishments, “Debossing and embossing have been a great way for companies to personalize a package; it’s easy and quick to manufacture without the high costs of having an entire item customized.”

Another trend Salemi has noticed is one in which brands are mixing matte and glossy finishes in both printing and packaging materials in order to get a more dimensional look. “The contrasting elements are another way to really help packaging stand out without having to use a lot of color,” he says.

Sometimes the decoration is in the fill itself. Verla designs innovative filling concepts and Vignone says, “Recently we’ve done some unique tube-within-a-tube and side-by-side tubes and extremely large diameter tubes and tubes with different fill layers.” She says since innovative visual filling concepts provide impulse purchases, this is an important area where Verla helps companies by creating these one-of-a-kind designs.

Sampling Color

Never before have samples of color cosmetics played such a large role in engaging consumers and inspiring them to purchase full-size products.

Diane Crecca, senior vice president, sales, marketing & business development, Arcade Marketing, says sampling campaigns for color cosmetics have become increasingly popular. She says any category of color cosmetics lends itself to sampling technology. “You can try the shade on your skin; test emollients for texture and shade; or determine coverage.”

Sampling has grown, says Crecca, due to the marketing challenges in chain retailers. “These samples can become the only way a potential customer can try before they buy, due to product either behind lock and key, or hermetically sealed.”

One of the trends Arcade is seeing is more of a variation in color—more than one color on eyes and lips; each nail a different color; two or more colors on each nail; or a complementary bronzer, highlighter and foundation.

“In that light, says Crecca, “we’re also doing multiples in sampling as well. For Cover FX, Arcade has combined three colors of foundation on a bind-in card. “Consumers want options—so we can show them three—and that way they know they have a choice and can find a good match,” she explains.

Color Optics by Arcade recently produced a tiny handout box for Urban Decay, called Seven Days of Shadow, which features eight eye color shades—seven shades of the brand’s iconic colors along with its “legendary” primer.

What’s Ahead

Back to Mintel’s Mixologiste trend, Vivienne Rudd, director of insight, Beauty & Personal Care, Mintel, says: “It’s an exciting time for color cosmetics, which have extended their scope into some unexpected areas. Hair chalks blend makeup with temporary colorants, primers now extend to pre-styling treatments and CC creams have moved beyond facial color cosmetics into nail care, lipsticks and even hair care. The coming years will see even more developments as manufacturers build on the excitement and pique consumers’ interest in more adventurous formats and claims.”