Jamie Matusow, Editor08.12.14
What is entertaining, informative, educational, full of surprises and fun—and marks its 5th anniversary as the only B to B packaging show in Europe?
It’s MakeUp in Paris, the exhibition that celebrates makeup as an art form and is thus appropriately located on the lower level of The Louvre Museum in the City of Lights.
Once again the popular boutique show painted a picture of the global makeup industry by bringing together formulation and packaging suppliers and brand marketers in a vertically profiled exposition and conference program, with an assortment of creative activities from compact design to nail art.
A special MakeUPhantasy exhibition in the lobby of the Carrousel de Louvre, where the show was held June 12-13, featured dramatic “sculptures” made from cosmetic components. Throughout the two days, makeup parades wended their way through the show’s halls, attendees took part in a sophisticated arts and crafts activity in which they decorated their own compacts, and a nail bar provided the latest in artful applications. Stands with makeup pigments and formulations helped to round out the experience.
More than 1,400 people attended the popular educational sessions during the two days, packing the conference room for each of the 12 sessions.
But above all, attendees—a total of 2,804 visitors (up12% over the previous year)—traveled to the show despite a regional taxi and train strike for the opportunity to engage with 114 vetted cosmetic exhibitors (up 17% compared to 2013’s 90 booths) in a friendly and intimate setting.
This year’s show drew more attendees from outside of France, with increased numbers of visitors from all over the world and especially from throughout other countries in Europe. According to show management, the number of foreign visitors broke all previous records, representing almost 30% of all visitors over two days.
To guarantee that this 5th anniversary show would be extra special, exhibitors and their guests were treated to an after-hours tour of The Louvre, where they had the opportunity to get up close to some of the museum’s greatest treasures including the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. More than a dozen groups (about 400 in total) accompanied by translators, engaged in the unforgettable experience.
While MakeUp in Paris has always featured a pure white backdrop and booth structures, visitors to this year’s event experienced a180-degree turn when they were greeted with a show floor of dramatic pure black booths. The midnight background created a sharp contrast to the colorful formulations and packaging—making the vivid hues pop.
The new design was the vision of MakeUp in’s show manager Sandra Maguarian. She told Beauty Packaging that the black has been a dream of hers for two years, and she had finally located a booth company that could provide her with the structures she had envisioned. (MakeUp in NY will also carry the black theme, she said.)
Why black instead of white? “I love black,” said Maguarian, who was dressed in black from head to toe. She said they had started using black in Seoul on a smaller scale because the colors (packaging and pigments) are highlighted more.
Maguarian said, “When I finished the setup I was amazed—I kept the black booth setup as a surprise. It looked very classy—and everyone loved the change.”
Reversing the color was just one new dash given to the show. She said there are always novelties, new things to see every year. “We try our best to change things to attract new attendees every year. What will they see? We want to always maintain an element of surprise so visitors feel like they have to come every year—that they don’t want to miss anything,” said Maguarian. “For instance, she said: “Tonight at The Louvre—a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”
As far as celebrating the 5th anniversary of MakeUp in Paris, Maguarian noted some awe of her own as she commented on the milestone: “Year 5,” she said, thoughtfully. “It’s amazing to think where we were five years ago with this concept. We never dreamed that we would have three shows [Paris, NY and Seoul] with the same team. It’s because we are so passionate. Jean-Yves (Bourgeois, the show’s director) and I do everything by passion. We put the people first. We’re always thinking about pleasing our exhibitors and attendees, like with these more luxurious booths. We want to keep things small and intimate. The show is a reflection of our soul: It is us. We personally choose exhibitors who attract attendees.”
Maguarian said that the show’s exhibitors also account for many revelations, as the event serves as a launchpad for new innovations.
“I think—my personal opinion—thanks to Korean companies, lots of other companies are launching products here. Koreans are driving the market in packaging and formulation.” There were nine Korean companies at this year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, following on the success of MakeUp in Seoul, according to Maguarian.
Overall, 19 of the original 30 exhibitors have participated at MakeUp in Paris for all five years.
Read on for Beauty Packaging’s observations, comments from exhibitors and the latest new packages and formulations shown—including predictions for the future of makeup—such as what will be the next big device in the cosmetics category.
Essentially, today’s increasingly demanding consumers want it all, and suppliers are doing their best to accommodate them, as they aim to provide long-wearing, high-quality, travel friendly, easy to apply, attractive, waterproof and hygienic cosmetics with fewer preservatives—and windows for instant viewing—in attractive and well-functioning packaging.
With regulations, quantities and launch dates always changing, suppliers stressed that flexibility is key in working with brands.
At Mei Shual, a full-service Taiwanese company, Marc Desmarais, director of innovation, showed us lots of products made from “tons of great molds.” The company can customize compacts for unique looks with a new look each season—using the same components, but different decorating techniques. Thus, Desmarais told Beauty Packaging, “We can create whole programs this way, including lipsticks, etc.”Many of the deco techniques use heat transfer labels. A new method combines heat transfer labels with 4/C on metallic. Heat transfer labels applied under pearlized resins provide a multidimensional effect. Lucite and glitter effects are also attention getting. The powders, themselves, are also beautiful and can be made to match the packaging. One standout in particular was a molded powder that matched a copper compact. A black injection molded compact looked like it was made from woven leather.
CTK Cosmetics is a Korean company that according to Christine Ansari, is growing quite a bit—especially with full service, manufacturing components and formulations.Ansari said they are especially innovative in developing patented customized packaging from mid-level through luxury. An airtight mesh jar (and mini mesh jar) can be used for loose powder or liquid foundation. She said one thing that makes them unique is that they involve people from all different disciplines in development—from packaging engineers to marketing managers, and then develop products based on all input. A niche player in the custom luxury market, CTK offers plastic as well as metal injection for makeup and skincare. Ansari said they focus on more innovative products like air cushion compacts and gel eyeliner. “Showing foundation in new ways is the trend,” said Ansari, “making liquid foundation portable and user friendly.” She said that using mesh in the jar makes loose powder more portable and user-friendly. The key is the packaging—we show our formulas in packaging to make them more interesting to the customers.”
At Crystal Moda, an Italian manufacturer, Dario Moretti explained that the company specializes in powder, and said that they are always developing new technologies.They manufacture lipstick bulk as well.
Pharmacos, from Italy, specializes in the creation, development and production of cosmetics including poured and baked face and eye shadow powders, and multi-shade pressing. Powders, lipsticks and color emulsions, too, are all manufactured in Italy. The company offers full service, semi-finished, bulk and assembling. They say their R&D labs are focused on the development of highly performing products. One baked powder was covered with a lacy pattern that blends and disappears with use.
The trend continues for formulation with texture at Aircos, a full service company that can duplicate the cover of the compact and the fill.Two colorful finishes featured at MakeUp in Paris were “holographic” glitter and “butterfly palette,” with deep jewel shades of eye shadow—purple, blue and gold.
Beautiful baked terracotta powders, foundation, primer and powders were on display at Gi Picco, a third-generation Italian makeup contract manufacturer from Milan, which now has a new scientific director. In a reversal of trends, Gi Picco said “some customers are coming from China to buy European quality.”
Libo Cosmetics featured an innovative loose powder dispenser—complete with a puff applicator, perfect for cosmetics such as finishing or foundation powder. The package dispenses powder formulations through its puff via a push-up membrane button, which is hidden underneath. It has an ABS/SAN cap, with a sealing ring inside to ensure a tight closure.es
Libo also offered a lipstick case with a flip-top mirror that exposes a tiny well that can be used for another small product—or a pill, for example. The component is available in round or square—or oval, which could be used for a product such as concealer. Skinny chubby sticks (for lip or eye) were available for daintier applications. The cap can be color-matched or can contain a window.
Frank Bierkandt, director sales, marketing and innovation, at OekaBeauty—which is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, and displayed a special gallery at MakeUp in Paris—showed Beauty Packaging the component called Lip Show, which he said represents a “whole new process.” He said it’s the first two-component injection blow-molded bottle. Through bi-injection blow molding, a transparent window reveals bulk color.Another feature aside from revealing the color of the lipstick: Bierkandt said it can reduce the amount of preservatives used in the bulk because it’s not exposed to sunlight. The window can be lip-shaped or any other shape.
Sheen Color, an Albéa strategic alliance partner, supplies color cosmetics for local Taiwanese and Chinese markets such as Watson’s as well as for export. The company specializes in formulations from mass to prestige. New in lipgloss were neon products and lip color that’s long wearing. One formulation called “milk mousse lips” looked like a paint formula. The completely matte formula is ideal for the prestige market. Adam Huang, general manager, said that all testing is done in-house, with the same standards as labs such as SGS.Huang told Beauty Packaging: “We follow trends very fast—such as with opaque and transparent looks. We do a lot of R&D, and have a great ability to do in-house adjustments depending on the market.” In addition to gel eye colors, Sheen Color also showed a foundation primer that’s very light, and a cream blush that’s natural and translucent.
At Future Touch trendcasting, Antoinette van den Berg told Beauty Packaging: “3D printing is going to turn the world upside down.” On display were concepts executed with 3D printing, which can be used for small quantities. Covers for lipsticks and compacts were especially attractive. Future Touch had also used 3D printing to produce rings with simulated pearls.
Taba Cosmetic Packaging is a new color cosmetics packaging firm, grown out of a refitted company that formerly molded plastics for batteries and automotive needs. At MakeUp in Paris, packaging for mascara especially stood out with beautifully executed bottles in cool patterns such as camouflage, leopard and wooden prints. The patented digital veil on the plastic, which is borrowed from car decoration, also makes the package scratchproof, so consumers will never have to worry about it getting bumped about in their bag.
At Topline Products, much of the focus was on eye products such as liners, and different ways of filling. Sales & marketing director Sandra Hutson told Beauty Packaging, “People are looking for new ways to use products.”
Topline’s Easy I-Liner combines performance and competitive pricing, said Hutson. Made of just five elements—body, cap, rollerball, applicator with ink reservoir and cap—this pack can be filled in industrial conditions without the need for special tooling, which facilitates the process for clients with their own filling times. The liner also provides long-time efficacy as the formula can’t dry up inside the pen. The liner comes with either a synthetic fiber brush or a felt tip, and is available in plastic or aluminum casing.
Geka traditionally presents a new collection at nearly every show and MakeUp in Paris was no exception, with the new ‘royal” family of mascaras called Kingdom of Technology. Pilar Gonzalez-Gomez, vice president marketing, explained that this collection has it all: “five twisted brushes, which are really high-tech wonders—and which offer the perfect application for every requirement,” along with an elegant base and brushes with EOS fibers manufactured in-house. Despite the same formulation, the results are in the detail: “ingenious differences which conjure up a noble masterpiece from each individual brush.” Brushes are named accordingly such as Lash Countess, Graceful Queen and Empress Eyes.
Rusi offered packaging for mascara, eyeliner, lipstick and lipgloss. One mascara package featured two bottles in one, with a click closure. Rusi can decorate both the inner and outer bottles separately for a multidimensional effect. An applicator for lipgloss combined short and long fibers—good for a visual effect as well as a softer application.
Among many items, Cosmogen unveiled a new lipgloss applicator with antibacterial properties. It was available in new shapes and new fluorescent colors. Another lip applicator combined a flocked applicator with a cooling Zamac side.
At Virospack, Joanna Milne, sales manager, told Beauty Packaging they have “lots of makeup products in the works.” For one, they’re coming out with wooden droppers (a wooden cap) as well as new pushbutton and classic droppers. “Wood satisfies requests from bio brands,” explained Milne, “as well as packaging for the men’s skincare market. Virospack even has a dropper for blush. “The dropper doesn’t touch the skin—so the formula remains hygienic,” said Milne.
OekaBeauty developed a special fluffy version of the Full Lips lipstick applicator. Bierkandt said extra-long flock fibers ensure a gentle and sensual application while at the same time having a greater reservoir function than regular flock fibers. With its special shape and large application surface, the soft lipstick applicator enables a comfortable but defined application from the outer lip contour.
Applicators with antibacterial and skin care properties were also on display at OekaBeauty. The antibacterial effect results from special zinc oxide modified flock composed of renewable raw material cellulose, which is loaded with zinc pigments. Thanks to a patented method, the antibacterial effect does not diminish with time and the fibers show growth inhibition effects on microorganisms. The antibacterial properties are confirmed scientifically.
Teibow, from Japan, supplies a wide variety of nibs for tips. A new pen-type nib was ideal for dispensing glitter ink. It allows for continuous flow—but can contain glitter. The representative at Teibow said eyeliner is their “absolute strength,” but added that their mascara filament contains a polyester elastomer that retains more bulk.
A new Release Shake Dropper, more for skin care than makeup, was front and center at FS Korea, and billed as a new paradigm for double-mixing packages. Twist open, release, shake, apply. The new concept is designed to create a visual paradigm for treatments that require a two-phase approach and that need to be mixed once the consumer has the product at home.
Capardoni, is a group of Italian companies that offers a wide range of cosmetic components to suit most any luxury project, with components including caps, lids, tubes, bottles, jars, wooden covers, lipsticks, spray and lotion pumps and more. Decoration services are also available.
International cosmetic packaging components manufacturer Brivaplast offered a variety of standard containers for mascara, lipgloss, eyeliner, eye shadow and lipstick. Manufacturing facilities in Europe and China help to provide customers and markets worldwide. One package that stood out was the company’s Snake Makeup Collection, with an image of a coiled gold python wrapped around a black-or white- tube and cap.Loose powder benefits from an applicator specially designed for free dry eye powder, thanks to a soft tip that spreads the powder to cover the lid, but without creating any loose dust. The rounded tip follows the contour of the eye; it also blends well. A lipgloss bottle features thick walls and great transparency with a lens effect on the bottom—for a 3D effect.
Bright neon colors and a range of silicone products drew attendees to LF Beauty, part of Li & Fung, which showed many products, from cosmetic packaging to nail polish holders to electronic beauty devices. Silicone holders for nail polish bottles slid between fingers, making it easy to hold the bottle. Silicone bracelets held mini lipsticks. Senior manager business development Anita Yuen described silicone as “a trendy material of the moment,” and said it can even be textured. A mini silicone compact was molded in one piece including the hinge—reducing the cost. LF Beauty also featured a “pen” they had developed in which each little bullet fits together “so you can bring your whole makeup bag with you in a stick.” Every bullet can be a different formula.
LF Beauty also displayed a number of electronic beauty devices, of which they said cleansing products are most popular. They can even design custom molds. “Foundation applicators will be the next big thing!” Yuen told Beauty Packaging. “Consumers are more aware of devices now—so they will be more accepting of new applications.”
A session at MakeUp in Paris explored the probable reasons. Panelists included Jill Tomandl, VP of product development, Smashbox (recently purchased by The Estée Lauder Companies); Leila Rochet Podvin (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation); and Ingrid Jackel (president, Physician’s Formula).
Here are some of the highlights:
•The West Coast has always been a land of pioneers and innovation, from the entertainment industry to new digital entrepreneurs.
•Creativity is driven by the entertainment industry and the California healthy lifestyle factor; weather conditions also impact texture choice.
•American/California women tend to want to be comfortable with themselves (as opposed to French women “who always look for the seductive factor”).
•The rise of the “green factor” especially in California luxury; 64% of consumers say that brands should have an ethical component—younger consumers are interested in this.
•West Coast brands started the trend of focusing on catchy color and product names.
•San Francisco is one of the most sustainable cities in the U.S., with no bottled water, hybrid taxis…
•Smaller West Coast companies can sometimes get things done faster and get to market more quickly.
It’s MakeUp in Paris, the exhibition that celebrates makeup as an art form and is thus appropriately located on the lower level of The Louvre Museum in the City of Lights.
Once again the popular boutique show painted a picture of the global makeup industry by bringing together formulation and packaging suppliers and brand marketers in a vertically profiled exposition and conference program, with an assortment of creative activities from compact design to nail art.
A special MakeUPhantasy exhibition in the lobby of the Carrousel de Louvre, where the show was held June 12-13, featured dramatic “sculptures” made from cosmetic components. Throughout the two days, makeup parades wended their way through the show’s halls, attendees took part in a sophisticated arts and crafts activity in which they decorated their own compacts, and a nail bar provided the latest in artful applications. Stands with makeup pigments and formulations helped to round out the experience.
More than 1,400 people attended the popular educational sessions during the two days, packing the conference room for each of the 12 sessions.
But above all, attendees—a total of 2,804 visitors (up12% over the previous year)—traveled to the show despite a regional taxi and train strike for the opportunity to engage with 114 vetted cosmetic exhibitors (up 17% compared to 2013’s 90 booths) in a friendly and intimate setting.
This year’s show drew more attendees from outside of France, with increased numbers of visitors from all over the world and especially from throughout other countries in Europe. According to show management, the number of foreign visitors broke all previous records, representing almost 30% of all visitors over two days.
To guarantee that this 5th anniversary show would be extra special, exhibitors and their guests were treated to an after-hours tour of The Louvre, where they had the opportunity to get up close to some of the museum’s greatest treasures including the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. More than a dozen groups (about 400 in total) accompanied by translators, engaged in the unforgettable experience.
Always Evolving
New too, at this year’s show, was the striking change in booth design and color.While MakeUp in Paris has always featured a pure white backdrop and booth structures, visitors to this year’s event experienced a180-degree turn when they were greeted with a show floor of dramatic pure black booths. The midnight background created a sharp contrast to the colorful formulations and packaging—making the vivid hues pop.
The new design was the vision of MakeUp in’s show manager Sandra Maguarian. She told Beauty Packaging that the black has been a dream of hers for two years, and she had finally located a booth company that could provide her with the structures she had envisioned. (MakeUp in NY will also carry the black theme, she said.)
Why black instead of white? “I love black,” said Maguarian, who was dressed in black from head to toe. She said they had started using black in Seoul on a smaller scale because the colors (packaging and pigments) are highlighted more.
Maguarian said, “When I finished the setup I was amazed—I kept the black booth setup as a surprise. It looked very classy—and everyone loved the change.”
Reversing the color was just one new dash given to the show. She said there are always novelties, new things to see every year. “We try our best to change things to attract new attendees every year. What will they see? We want to always maintain an element of surprise so visitors feel like they have to come every year—that they don’t want to miss anything,” said Maguarian. “For instance, she said: “Tonight at The Louvre—a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”
As far as celebrating the 5th anniversary of MakeUp in Paris, Maguarian noted some awe of her own as she commented on the milestone: “Year 5,” she said, thoughtfully. “It’s amazing to think where we were five years ago with this concept. We never dreamed that we would have three shows [Paris, NY and Seoul] with the same team. It’s because we are so passionate. Jean-Yves (Bourgeois, the show’s director) and I do everything by passion. We put the people first. We’re always thinking about pleasing our exhibitors and attendees, like with these more luxurious booths. We want to keep things small and intimate. The show is a reflection of our soul: It is us. We personally choose exhibitors who attract attendees.”
Maguarian said that the show’s exhibitors also account for many revelations, as the event serves as a launchpad for new innovations.
“I think—my personal opinion—thanks to Korean companies, lots of other companies are launching products here. Koreans are driving the market in packaging and formulation.” There were nine Korean companies at this year’s edition of MakeUp in Paris, following on the success of MakeUp in Seoul, according to Maguarian.
Overall, 19 of the original 30 exhibitors have participated at MakeUp in Paris for all five years.
Read on for Beauty Packaging’s observations, comments from exhibitors and the latest new packages and formulations shown—including predictions for the future of makeup—such as what will be the next big device in the cosmetics category.
General Trends
Textural and tactile features in both formulations and packaging continue to target consumers’ attention, from 3D componentry to elaborately pressed powders; creamy, matte finish, plumping, glossy, long lasting were some of the descriptors noted. The allure of full service by brands has encouraged more suppliers to move in that direction. Offering foundation in new ways is also popular; making liquid foundation portable and user friendly is key, as shown with lots of new compacts. Gel products are hot—and available in a number of eye, lip and cheek cosmetic products. Pencils—from chubby to dainty, eye to lip—are still drawing customers.Essentially, today’s increasingly demanding consumers want it all, and suppliers are doing their best to accommodate them, as they aim to provide long-wearing, high-quality, travel friendly, easy to apply, attractive, waterproof and hygienic cosmetics with fewer preservatives—and windows for instant viewing—in attractive and well-functioning packaging.
With regulations, quantities and launch dates always changing, suppliers stressed that flexibility is key in working with brands.
Cheeky Offerings
Compacts, either empty or filled with swirled or 3D baked powders, stood out at a number of booths.At Mei Shual, a full-service Taiwanese company, Marc Desmarais, director of innovation, showed us lots of products made from “tons of great molds.” The company can customize compacts for unique looks with a new look each season—using the same components, but different decorating techniques. Thus, Desmarais told Beauty Packaging, “We can create whole programs this way, including lipsticks, etc.”Many of the deco techniques use heat transfer labels. A new method combines heat transfer labels with 4/C on metallic. Heat transfer labels applied under pearlized resins provide a multidimensional effect. Lucite and glitter effects are also attention getting. The powders, themselves, are also beautiful and can be made to match the packaging. One standout in particular was a molded powder that matched a copper compact. A black injection molded compact looked like it was made from woven leather.
CTK Cosmetics is a Korean company that according to Christine Ansari, is growing quite a bit—especially with full service, manufacturing components and formulations.Ansari said they are especially innovative in developing patented customized packaging from mid-level through luxury. An airtight mesh jar (and mini mesh jar) can be used for loose powder or liquid foundation. She said one thing that makes them unique is that they involve people from all different disciplines in development—from packaging engineers to marketing managers, and then develop products based on all input. A niche player in the custom luxury market, CTK offers plastic as well as metal injection for makeup and skincare. Ansari said they focus on more innovative products like air cushion compacts and gel eyeliner. “Showing foundation in new ways is the trend,” said Ansari, “making liquid foundation portable and user friendly.” She said that using mesh in the jar makes loose powder more portable and user-friendly. The key is the packaging—we show our formulas in packaging to make them more interesting to the customers.”
At Crystal Moda, an Italian manufacturer, Dario Moretti explained that the company specializes in powder, and said that they are always developing new technologies.They manufacture lipstick bulk as well.
Pharmacos, from Italy, specializes in the creation, development and production of cosmetics including poured and baked face and eye shadow powders, and multi-shade pressing. Powders, lipsticks and color emulsions, too, are all manufactured in Italy. The company offers full service, semi-finished, bulk and assembling. They say their R&D labs are focused on the development of highly performing products. One baked powder was covered with a lacy pattern that blends and disappears with use.
The trend continues for formulation with texture at Aircos, a full service company that can duplicate the cover of the compact and the fill.Two colorful finishes featured at MakeUp in Paris were “holographic” glitter and “butterfly palette,” with deep jewel shades of eye shadow—purple, blue and gold.
Beautiful baked terracotta powders, foundation, primer and powders were on display at Gi Picco, a third-generation Italian makeup contract manufacturer from Milan, which now has a new scientific director. In a reversal of trends, Gi Picco said “some customers are coming from China to buy European quality.”
Libo Cosmetics featured an innovative loose powder dispenser—complete with a puff applicator, perfect for cosmetics such as finishing or foundation powder. The package dispenses powder formulations through its puff via a push-up membrane button, which is hidden underneath. It has an ABS/SAN cap, with a sealing ring inside to ensure a tight closure.es
Puckering Up
As you would expect at a makeup show, many exhibitors were featuring products for lips.Libo also offered a lipstick case with a flip-top mirror that exposes a tiny well that can be used for another small product—or a pill, for example. The component is available in round or square—or oval, which could be used for a product such as concealer. Skinny chubby sticks (for lip or eye) were available for daintier applications. The cap can be color-matched or can contain a window.
Frank Bierkandt, director sales, marketing and innovation, at OekaBeauty—which is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, and displayed a special gallery at MakeUp in Paris—showed Beauty Packaging the component called Lip Show, which he said represents a “whole new process.” He said it’s the first two-component injection blow-molded bottle. Through bi-injection blow molding, a transparent window reveals bulk color.Another feature aside from revealing the color of the lipstick: Bierkandt said it can reduce the amount of preservatives used in the bulk because it’s not exposed to sunlight. The window can be lip-shaped or any other shape.
Sheen Color, an Albéa strategic alliance partner, supplies color cosmetics for local Taiwanese and Chinese markets such as Watson’s as well as for export. The company specializes in formulations from mass to prestige. New in lipgloss were neon products and lip color that’s long wearing. One formulation called “milk mousse lips” looked like a paint formula. The completely matte formula is ideal for the prestige market. Adam Huang, general manager, said that all testing is done in-house, with the same standards as labs such as SGS.Huang told Beauty Packaging: “We follow trends very fast—such as with opaque and transparent looks. We do a lot of R&D, and have a great ability to do in-house adjustments depending on the market.” In addition to gel eye colors, Sheen Color also showed a foundation primer that’s very light, and a cream blush that’s natural and translucent.
At Future Touch trendcasting, Antoinette van den Berg told Beauty Packaging: “3D printing is going to turn the world upside down.” On display were concepts executed with 3D printing, which can be used for small quantities. Covers for lipsticks and compacts were especially attractive. Future Touch had also used 3D printing to produce rings with simulated pearls.
Batting An Eye
From gel eyeliners to longwearing shadows, dramatic eye makeup raised many a brow at the show.Taba Cosmetic Packaging is a new color cosmetics packaging firm, grown out of a refitted company that formerly molded plastics for batteries and automotive needs. At MakeUp in Paris, packaging for mascara especially stood out with beautifully executed bottles in cool patterns such as camouflage, leopard and wooden prints. The patented digital veil on the plastic, which is borrowed from car decoration, also makes the package scratchproof, so consumers will never have to worry about it getting bumped about in their bag.
At Topline Products, much of the focus was on eye products such as liners, and different ways of filling. Sales & marketing director Sandra Hutson told Beauty Packaging, “People are looking for new ways to use products.”
Topline’s Easy I-Liner combines performance and competitive pricing, said Hutson. Made of just five elements—body, cap, rollerball, applicator with ink reservoir and cap—this pack can be filled in industrial conditions without the need for special tooling, which facilitates the process for clients with their own filling times. The liner also provides long-time efficacy as the formula can’t dry up inside the pen. The liner comes with either a synthetic fiber brush or a felt tip, and is available in plastic or aluminum casing.
Geka traditionally presents a new collection at nearly every show and MakeUp in Paris was no exception, with the new ‘royal” family of mascaras called Kingdom of Technology. Pilar Gonzalez-Gomez, vice president marketing, explained that this collection has it all: “five twisted brushes, which are really high-tech wonders—and which offer the perfect application for every requirement,” along with an elegant base and brushes with EOS fibers manufactured in-house. Despite the same formulation, the results are in the detail: “ingenious differences which conjure up a noble masterpiece from each individual brush.” Brushes are named accordingly such as Lash Countess, Graceful Queen and Empress Eyes.
Rusi offered packaging for mascara, eyeliner, lipstick and lipgloss. One mascara package featured two bottles in one, with a click closure. Rusi can decorate both the inner and outer bottles separately for a multidimensional effect. An applicator for lipgloss combined short and long fibers—good for a visual effect as well as a softer application.
Apply Here
A wide variety of applicators including brushes, tips, nibs, sponges and droppers made it obvious that application is key to consumer loyalty.Among many items, Cosmogen unveiled a new lipgloss applicator with antibacterial properties. It was available in new shapes and new fluorescent colors. Another lip applicator combined a flocked applicator with a cooling Zamac side.
At Virospack, Joanna Milne, sales manager, told Beauty Packaging they have “lots of makeup products in the works.” For one, they’re coming out with wooden droppers (a wooden cap) as well as new pushbutton and classic droppers. “Wood satisfies requests from bio brands,” explained Milne, “as well as packaging for the men’s skincare market. Virospack even has a dropper for blush. “The dropper doesn’t touch the skin—so the formula remains hygienic,” said Milne.
OekaBeauty developed a special fluffy version of the Full Lips lipstick applicator. Bierkandt said extra-long flock fibers ensure a gentle and sensual application while at the same time having a greater reservoir function than regular flock fibers. With its special shape and large application surface, the soft lipstick applicator enables a comfortable but defined application from the outer lip contour.
Applicators with antibacterial and skin care properties were also on display at OekaBeauty. The antibacterial effect results from special zinc oxide modified flock composed of renewable raw material cellulose, which is loaded with zinc pigments. Thanks to a patented method, the antibacterial effect does not diminish with time and the fibers show growth inhibition effects on microorganisms. The antibacterial properties are confirmed scientifically.
Teibow, from Japan, supplies a wide variety of nibs for tips. A new pen-type nib was ideal for dispensing glitter ink. It allows for continuous flow—but can contain glitter. The representative at Teibow said eyeliner is their “absolute strength,” but added that their mascara filament contains a polyester elastomer that retains more bulk.
A new Release Shake Dropper, more for skin care than makeup, was front and center at FS Korea, and billed as a new paradigm for double-mixing packages. Twist open, release, shake, apply. The new concept is designed to create a visual paradigm for treatments that require a two-phase approach and that need to be mixed once the consumer has the product at home.
Doing It All
With full service being so popular, many exhibitors showed an extensive range of offerings.Capardoni, is a group of Italian companies that offers a wide range of cosmetic components to suit most any luxury project, with components including caps, lids, tubes, bottles, jars, wooden covers, lipsticks, spray and lotion pumps and more. Decoration services are also available.
International cosmetic packaging components manufacturer Brivaplast offered a variety of standard containers for mascara, lipgloss, eyeliner, eye shadow and lipstick. Manufacturing facilities in Europe and China help to provide customers and markets worldwide. One package that stood out was the company’s Snake Makeup Collection, with an image of a coiled gold python wrapped around a black-or white- tube and cap.Loose powder benefits from an applicator specially designed for free dry eye powder, thanks to a soft tip that spreads the powder to cover the lid, but without creating any loose dust. The rounded tip follows the contour of the eye; it also blends well. A lipgloss bottle features thick walls and great transparency with a lens effect on the bottom—for a 3D effect.
Bright neon colors and a range of silicone products drew attendees to LF Beauty, part of Li & Fung, which showed many products, from cosmetic packaging to nail polish holders to electronic beauty devices. Silicone holders for nail polish bottles slid between fingers, making it easy to hold the bottle. Silicone bracelets held mini lipsticks. Senior manager business development Anita Yuen described silicone as “a trendy material of the moment,” and said it can even be textured. A mini silicone compact was molded in one piece including the hinge—reducing the cost. LF Beauty also featured a “pen” they had developed in which each little bullet fits together “so you can bring your whole makeup bag with you in a stick.” Every bullet can be a different formula.
LF Beauty also displayed a number of electronic beauty devices, of which they said cleansing products are most popular. They can even design custom molds. “Foundation applicators will be the next big thing!” Yuen told Beauty Packaging. “Consumers are more aware of devices now—so they will be more accepting of new applications.”
The West Coast of the U.S.: A Think-and-Do-Tank
What is it about the West Coast of the United States that makes it the heart of innovative cosmetic brands? Why does California stand out from other regions as an incubator of creativity in the makeup world, with many makeup artist brands, doctor brands, mineral makeup company brands—including Benefit, OPI, Smashbox, Urban Decay, Hourglass, Physicians Formula, Perricone and Bare Escentuals—all getting their start there?A session at MakeUp in Paris explored the probable reasons. Panelists included Jill Tomandl, VP of product development, Smashbox (recently purchased by The Estée Lauder Companies); Leila Rochet Podvin (Cosmetics Inspiration & Creation); and Ingrid Jackel (president, Physician’s Formula).
Here are some of the highlights:
•The West Coast has always been a land of pioneers and innovation, from the entertainment industry to new digital entrepreneurs.
•Creativity is driven by the entertainment industry and the California healthy lifestyle factor; weather conditions also impact texture choice.
•American/California women tend to want to be comfortable with themselves (as opposed to French women “who always look for the seductive factor”).
•The rise of the “green factor” especially in California luxury; 64% of consumers say that brands should have an ethical component—younger consumers are interested in this.
•West Coast brands started the trend of focusing on catchy color and product names.
•San Francisco is one of the most sustainable cities in the U.S., with no bottled water, hybrid taxis…
•Smaller West Coast companies can sometimes get things done faster and get to market more quickly.