12.02.11
Luxe Pack Monaco Attendance Grows Double Digits
Packaging executives from both the U.S. and Europe shopped the show floor for creative solutions to house premium products.
Cosmetic and fragrance packaging is back to pre-recession levels, especially in Europe, and brands are seeking suppliers with innovative solutions to steer their future success with consumer purchases. This was the general consensus at this fall’s 24th annual Luxe Pack Monaco event, which ran from October 19-21 at Monte Carlo’s seaside Grimaldi Forum.
Show organizers reported a record 6,355 visitors—with both U.S. and European purchasers—an impressive growth of 11% over 2010.
Nathalie Grosdidier, Luxe Pack’s executive director, told Beauty Packaging that increased requests for floor space had prompted them to rearrange existing areas so that they could accommodate 10 additional exhibitors this year. In total, there were 350 participating suppliers, with 40 that were different than last year’s.
Long Term Versus Short Term
The focus of at least some of this year’s exhibitors may have shifted from that in the past, as Grosdidier told Beauty Packaging that there’s been “somewhat of a change in mentality in the industry.” She said, “For about 10 years, we had a long-term vision. Now, we have a short-term vision. No one knows what the conditions to come are.” She added that Europe is back on track, and “it seems to be true in the U.S., too.”
Short-term vision could also be behind the trend Grosdidier noted regarding decorative techniques. With more brands turning to stock items for quick delivery and economics, and counting on special effects for a customized look, she said they had received “more and more applications from decoration companies.” Grosdidier also said there were a number of new Spanish companies that had signed on this year.
An expanded international flavor was also apparent in the show’s extensive educational program, which included speakers from around the world.
While packagers of Spirits once again created a presence, Luxe Pack Monaco’s ratio still leans heavily toward cosmetics and perfumery at 60%-65%. The crossover between the two categories remains evident with highly decorated liquor bottles mimicking high-end fragrance flacons.
Whether fragrance, cosmetics or spirits, Luxe Pack never fails to deliver a wide array of prestige packaging, and continues to serve as a window to packaging trends. Beauty Packaging noticed a sense of fun and entertainment mingled with some of this year’s offerings, including customer-interactive makeup and packaging, from pop-out color pans to snap-together cosmetics, elaborate decorations, holographic motion displays and multi-sensorial effects.
Luxe Pack Trends Observer
It’s always fascinating to learn what Luxe Pack’s panel of experts uncovers in its annual mission to pinpoint emerging trends among the many suppliers. This year’s Trends Observer team highlighted four key categories: “The Sacred Logo” with brands such as Gucci and YSL making the most of huge logos to assert their presence and appeal; “Boosting Your Look” with extra-special touches including sleeves and accessories, such as the leaves adorning Lolita Lempicka’s fragrance; “Kaleidoscope” which uses show-off techniques from industrial effects like laser cutting to holograms and heavy faceting; and “Reification” in which a fragrance or cosmetics jar becomes a decorative accessory in its own right such as a package that resembles an apple or a microphone (Azzaro Decibel).
Show Floor Tour
For Beauty Packaging’s own annual custom “trends tour” of the Luxe Pack Monaco show floor with packaging designer Marc Rosen, we looked at the theme of “re-appropriating common materials in a more unusual way” in order for brands to differentiate themselves from the pack. Rosen’s associate Kevin Marshall joined us for an eye-opening tour of exhibitors’ achievements in this area.
To start, a trip to Metapack yielded a Prada fragrance bottle made of stainless steel—lightweight and without glass. Marshall noted, “Whereas weight was once a traditional luxury language, in this case, it was the absence of weight.” A fragrance bottle for Kenzo, shaped like an infinity sign, relied on Zamac, a material most often utilized for caps, to encase a plastic bottle.
At EOS, rubber was employed as a packaging material for effective tactile communication. Molded plastic is stretched to fit over bottles from fragrance to spirits for a detailed, but seamless—and luxurious—look. The patented product can also be labeled for further impact.
Saver Glass provided an example of the unexpected in glass molding, showing how all surfaces of a bottle can benefit from decoration. A flacon for Victoria’s Secret Gorgeous revealed hearts stamped on the bottom of the bottle. An intricate molding process differentiated the thicknesses of the hearts. Another fragrance bottle delighted with a shell embedded in the bottom. “It’s a way to take advantage of another area of the bottle right in the mold,” said Rosen.
We also noted a number of examples of plastics that took the place of glass bottles in cosmetics and skin care, and the use of highly defined decorative techniques, overmolding and layers to make bottles look more premium. Playing with inner shapes and colors that are different than those on the exterior makes products pop by magnifying what you want to show inside.
The black dagger in Diesel’s Loverdose bottle, executed by Bormioli Luigi, proved a prime example, with layers of interest, including a black sheath over the dip tube. The intricately faceted “sword in the stone” flacon rests on its side for further interest.
Aside from materials, Marshall also pointed out what he described as “a complete re-direction in non-traditional fragrance design.” He said, “The design definition is expanding. No longer does it follow the traditional proportion of 1-3, with the bottle being three caps high.”
In other words, in today’s innovative packaging world, almost anything goes. As evidence, a walk around the show floor revealed megacaps that equaled or dwarfed bottles and several that were molded to imitate floral bouquets.
Decorative Techniques
Whether molded, sprayed, embellished, debossed or embossed, decorative techniques punctuated the show floor on everything from weighty glass to shiny metal to plastic cosmetics jars for a dazzling array.
At Pacific Glass, Daniel Park showed Beauty Packaging’s publisher Jay Gorga and me a new technique they had developed, in which they can now decorate on embossing on top of glass, such as what they had achieved for Ed Hardy’s Villain fragrance.
Anomatic, a first-time Luxe Pack Monaco exhibitor, showcased finishes appropriate for either spirits or cosmetics. For example, double anodizing allows for two different finishes or colors, such as matte with bright. Steven Rusch, director of marketing, said he had noticed a “real resurgence in ‘premiumization.’ ”
Peelable, fluorescent and precious metal inks, flocking and silk screening were just some of the decorative effects on display at SGD’s booth. While the glassmaker is renowned for using special techniques on fragrance bottles including, of late, Rihanna’s Reb’l Fleur, Mariah Carey’s Lollipop Splash and Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck (for more info on Wonderstruck’s decorative techniques, please see www.beautypackaging.com), at Luxe Pack Monaco they were also highlighting their glass for use in premium cosmetics lines. A huge array of decorative techniques can be applied to these bottles as well. Also featured was SGD’s Atelier de Creation, which includes multi-effects lacquering, metallic, opaque, soft touch and iridescent effects.
Applicators
Whether glass, metal or plastic, decorated or plain, to win consumer loyalty, product packaging not only has to look appealing, but it also must function well. Thus, applicators have gained new visibility and importance among consumers, and Luxe Pack exhibitors offered brand representatives lots of choices.
Neopac introduced dropper tubes in 1- to 30ml sizes for beauty serums. Consumers are able to apply a product drop by drop for easy dosage without waste.
At Albéa, the focus on applicators highlighted those for lipgloss. “Intense colors are back,” said Marjorie Vincenti, and intense colors call for more technical, makeup-artist type tools. Albéa presented two lines of lipgloss applicators at the show: the SpinArt family of rotating applicators and the Neopro range of lipgloss spatula applicators. Both are designed to put more fun into lip coloring.
Geka, too, followed the trend to make makeup fun with several new lines of mascara applicators, one which enables the user to highlight the tips of her lashes with gold. Pilar Gonzales-Gomez also shared Geka’s Harmony Duo Concept, which enables consumers to combine two cosmetics of choice, such as mascara and lipgloss, via a patented connecting concept. Thanks to the standardized closure design, any bottle can be combined with any other, with no interface section.
Even a cosmetics brush can be made more entertaining to use, and Anisa International has done just that. The company presented its fragranced brush. The fragrance can be injected into any standard mold, and lasts up to five years. The scent can be customized.
Cosmogen offered a variety of applicator tips and fun brushes, including its new brush, which can have a customized message added to the handle. Denis Richard-Orliange showed Beauty Packaging the company’s two newest innovations: a refillable airtight, loose powder jar (please see more on this product in the feature on Innovative Packaging in this issue) in which the dose can be regulated; and the Squeeze ’n Sculpt body range with five roller balls independent of the formula, and with an on/off switch.
Stock
Dominic Bakic of Dieter Bakic Enterprises was highlighting one of the company’s stock lines. Cosima offers one bottle and jar shape in a full family of sizes and available with numerous closures, which combine for a cohesive look.
Airless
Fusion Packaging displayed a wide array of airless packaging in sizes ranging from mini to maxi. One product in the line-up was its Square Twist Up Airless bottle whose design was honored earlier this year with the IoPP AmeriStar award.
At Megaplast, COO Lucyna Silberstein pointed out the various high-end finishing and decorative techniques the company offers on its plastic airless bottles. “We have produced full plastic, with no metal parts, fully recyclable for 25 years,” said Silberstein.
Sense Appeal
One of the attractions at this year’s show was the increased number of motion and special-effects countertop displays and eye-catching 3D graphics. Spanish company Esparbé, founded in 1876, caught our eye with added value print features that captured the senses. Appealing textures, aromas and optical illusions were a few of the effects that motivated consumers to interact and engage in packages by, for example, smelling soap on a towel, touching nail polish poured on a carton and reaching out for raised lipstick graphics. The booth representative, Anna Barris-Esparbé, the fifth-generation of the founding family, showed attendees just how powerful decorative packaging techniques can be in attracting consumers’ attention.
Some Booth Highlights from Luxe Pack Monaco 2011
Packaging executives from both the U.S. and Europe shopped the show floor for creative solutions to house premium products.
Attendance was up with both U.S. and European visitors. (Photo: Philippe Thery www.philtyphoto.com) |
Cosmetic and fragrance packaging is back to pre-recession levels, especially in Europe, and brands are seeking suppliers with innovative solutions to steer their future success with consumer purchases. This was the general consensus at this fall’s 24th annual Luxe Pack Monaco event, which ran from October 19-21 at Monte Carlo’s seaside Grimaldi Forum.
Show organizers reported a record 6,355 visitors—with both U.S. and European purchasers—an impressive growth of 11% over 2010.
Nathalie Grosdidier, Luxe Pack’s executive director, told Beauty Packaging that increased requests for floor space had prompted them to rearrange existing areas so that they could accommodate 10 additional exhibitors this year. In total, there were 350 participating suppliers, with 40 that were different than last year’s.
Long Term Versus Short Term
The focus of at least some of this year’s exhibitors may have shifted from that in the past, as Grosdidier told Beauty Packaging that there’s been “somewhat of a change in mentality in the industry.” She said, “For about 10 years, we had a long-term vision. Now, we have a short-term vision. No one knows what the conditions to come are.” She added that Europe is back on track, and “it seems to be true in the U.S., too.”
Short-term vision could also be behind the trend Grosdidier noted regarding decorative techniques. With more brands turning to stock items for quick delivery and economics, and counting on special effects for a customized look, she said they had received “more and more applications from decoration companies.” Grosdidier also said there were a number of new Spanish companies that had signed on this year.
An expanded international flavor was also apparent in the show’s extensive educational program, which included speakers from around the world.
While packagers of Spirits once again created a presence, Luxe Pack Monaco’s ratio still leans heavily toward cosmetics and perfumery at 60%-65%. The crossover between the two categories remains evident with highly decorated liquor bottles mimicking high-end fragrance flacons.
Whether fragrance, cosmetics or spirits, Luxe Pack never fails to deliver a wide array of prestige packaging, and continues to serve as a window to packaging trends. Beauty Packaging noticed a sense of fun and entertainment mingled with some of this year’s offerings, including customer-interactive makeup and packaging, from pop-out color pans to snap-together cosmetics, elaborate decorations, holographic motion displays and multi-sensorial effects.
Luxe Pack Trends Observer
It’s always fascinating to learn what Luxe Pack’s panel of experts uncovers in its annual mission to pinpoint emerging trends among the many suppliers. This year’s Trends Observer team highlighted four key categories: “The Sacred Logo” with brands such as Gucci and YSL making the most of huge logos to assert their presence and appeal; “Boosting Your Look” with extra-special touches including sleeves and accessories, such as the leaves adorning Lolita Lempicka’s fragrance; “Kaleidoscope” which uses show-off techniques from industrial effects like laser cutting to holograms and heavy faceting; and “Reification” in which a fragrance or cosmetics jar becomes a decorative accessory in its own right such as a package that resembles an apple or a microphone (Azzaro Decibel).
Show Floor Tour
Marc Rosen, Jamie Matusow and Kevin Marshall |
To start, a trip to Metapack yielded a Prada fragrance bottle made of stainless steel—lightweight and without glass. Marshall noted, “Whereas weight was once a traditional luxury language, in this case, it was the absence of weight.” A fragrance bottle for Kenzo, shaped like an infinity sign, relied on Zamac, a material most often utilized for caps, to encase a plastic bottle.
At EOS, rubber was employed as a packaging material for effective tactile communication. Molded plastic is stretched to fit over bottles from fragrance to spirits for a detailed, but seamless—and luxurious—look. The patented product can also be labeled for further impact.
Saver Glass provided an example of the unexpected in glass molding, showing how all surfaces of a bottle can benefit from decoration. A flacon for Victoria’s Secret Gorgeous revealed hearts stamped on the bottom of the bottle. An intricate molding process differentiated the thicknesses of the hearts. Another fragrance bottle delighted with a shell embedded in the bottom. “It’s a way to take advantage of another area of the bottle right in the mold,” said Rosen.
We also noted a number of examples of plastics that took the place of glass bottles in cosmetics and skin care, and the use of highly defined decorative techniques, overmolding and layers to make bottles look more premium. Playing with inner shapes and colors that are different than those on the exterior makes products pop by magnifying what you want to show inside.
The black dagger in Diesel’s Loverdose bottle, executed by Bormioli Luigi, proved a prime example, with layers of interest, including a black sheath over the dip tube. The intricately faceted “sword in the stone” flacon rests on its side for further interest.
Aside from materials, Marshall also pointed out what he described as “a complete re-direction in non-traditional fragrance design.” He said, “The design definition is expanding. No longer does it follow the traditional proportion of 1-3, with the bottle being three caps high.”
In other words, in today’s innovative packaging world, almost anything goes. As evidence, a walk around the show floor revealed megacaps that equaled or dwarfed bottles and several that were molded to imitate floral bouquets.
Decorative Techniques
SGD highlighted its decorated glass for use in premium cosmetics lines. |
At Pacific Glass, Daniel Park showed Beauty Packaging’s publisher Jay Gorga and me a new technique they had developed, in which they can now decorate on embossing on top of glass, such as what they had achieved for Ed Hardy’s Villain fragrance.
Anomatic, a first-time Luxe Pack Monaco exhibitor, showcased finishes appropriate for either spirits or cosmetics. For example, double anodizing allows for two different finishes or colors, such as matte with bright. Steven Rusch, director of marketing, said he had noticed a “real resurgence in ‘premiumization.’ ”
Peelable, fluorescent and precious metal inks, flocking and silk screening were just some of the decorative effects on display at SGD’s booth. While the glassmaker is renowned for using special techniques on fragrance bottles including, of late, Rihanna’s Reb’l Fleur, Mariah Carey’s Lollipop Splash and Taylor Swift’s Wonderstruck (for more info on Wonderstruck’s decorative techniques, please see www.beautypackaging.com), at Luxe Pack Monaco they were also highlighting their glass for use in premium cosmetics lines. A huge array of decorative techniques can be applied to these bottles as well. Also featured was SGD’s Atelier de Creation, which includes multi-effects lacquering, metallic, opaque, soft touch and iridescent effects.
Applicators
Albéa presented its SpinArt family of rotating lipgloss applicators. |
Neopac introduced dropper tubes in 1- to 30ml sizes for beauty serums. Consumers are able to apply a product drop by drop for easy dosage without waste.
At Albéa, the focus on applicators highlighted those for lipgloss. “Intense colors are back,” said Marjorie Vincenti, and intense colors call for more technical, makeup-artist type tools. Albéa presented two lines of lipgloss applicators at the show: the SpinArt family of rotating applicators and the Neopro range of lipgloss spatula applicators. Both are designed to put more fun into lip coloring.
Geka, too, followed the trend to make makeup fun with several new lines of mascara applicators, one which enables the user to highlight the tips of her lashes with gold. Pilar Gonzales-Gomez also shared Geka’s Harmony Duo Concept, which enables consumers to combine two cosmetics of choice, such as mascara and lipgloss, via a patented connecting concept. Thanks to the standardized closure design, any bottle can be combined with any other, with no interface section.
Even a cosmetics brush can be made more entertaining to use, and Anisa International has done just that. The company presented its fragranced brush. The fragrance can be injected into any standard mold, and lasts up to five years. The scent can be customized.
Cosmogen offered a variety of applicator tips and fun brushes, including its new brush, which can have a customized message added to the handle. Denis Richard-Orliange showed Beauty Packaging the company’s two newest innovations: a refillable airtight, loose powder jar (please see more on this product in the feature on Innovative Packaging in this issue) in which the dose can be regulated; and the Squeeze ’n Sculpt body range with five roller balls independent of the formula, and with an on/off switch.
Stock
Dominic Bakic of Dieter Bakic Enterprises was highlighting one of the company’s stock lines. Cosima offers one bottle and jar shape in a full family of sizes and available with numerous closures, which combine for a cohesive look.
Airless
On display at Fusion’s booth: TRU line offers multiple pump options for customers to choose from. |
At Megaplast, COO Lucyna Silberstein pointed out the various high-end finishing and decorative techniques the company offers on its plastic airless bottles. “We have produced full plastic, with no metal parts, fully recyclable for 25 years,” said Silberstein.
Sense Appeal
One of the attractions at this year’s show was the increased number of motion and special-effects countertop displays and eye-catching 3D graphics. Spanish company Esparbé, founded in 1876, caught our eye with added value print features that captured the senses. Appealing textures, aromas and optical illusions were a few of the effects that motivated consumers to interact and engage in packages by, for example, smelling soap on a towel, touching nail polish poured on a carton and reaching out for raised lipstick graphics. The booth representative, Anna Barris-Esparbé, the fifth-generation of the founding family, showed attendees just how powerful decorative packaging techniques can be in attracting consumers’ attention.
Where do Innovation, Sustainability and Creativity Merge? A Luxe Pack panel discussion sheds some light on the issue. In one of this year’s educational sessions at Luxe Pack Monaco, international packaging designer Marc Rosen invited leaders in the community to comment on some of the most complex issues facing the world’s beauty and packaging industry. Speakers participating in the discussion, titled “Innovation, Sustainability, Creativity: Buzzwords or Bywords?” included Sumit Bhasin, global leader of innovation, P&G Prestige; Henry Renella, senior vice president, global package development, The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC); Arlette Paolo, vice president global product innovation, (ELC); and Tom Bosenkit, Wrapology. Each defined the various terms according to their experiences and explained how their companies were striving to balance the three goals of today’s packaging. Renella started the discussion by defining what the terms mean at ELC. “Innovation,” he said, “is the introduction of something new. Creativity is when you have an applicable concept and you bring it forward.” He added: “You need a combination of innovation and creativity, then add sustainability.” He also stressed the importance of knowing your customers and said that ELC customers are not ready for a radical swing in the look of their packaging. “It’s an evolution, not a revolution,” he said. ELC owns 29 brands and while customers of some, such as Origins and Aveda, embrace sustainability, those loyal to other brands may not. While ELC incorporates these practices across the board, they don’t always make it obvious to their customers. He added, “Social responsibility is a key part of being a supplier for Lauder.” P&G follows a consumer-centric approach regarding the three words, according to Bhasin, who said, they are more than buzzwords: “Innovation and creativity are the heart and core of what we do every day.”Always aiming to “delight consumers,” Bhasin said the consumer product giant’s prestige division will continue to focus on stronger supplier relationships, embrace the idea of breakthrough technology and look at cost innovations to provide consumers with better interaction and value. He said sustainability needs to be looked at in a more holistic way—and that it’s “everyone’s responsibility.” “Every consumer wants to contribute, said Bhasin. “We have to make it easy for them [in ways such as developing new materials rather than relying on petroleum-based products.] Having been stranded in Japan during the earthquake in March gave Paolo a new focus that combines innovation, sustainability and creativity. The experience of a lack of water among so many people for so many days has her now aiming to develop waterless formulas such as cake mascara. She laid out a three-step pathway to achieve her goals: Make the value the driving force (the value of water, which is predicted to become the most precious commodity in the next century); match the efficacy to the value (conservation does not have to mean deprivation); and let creativity guide—share knowledge and collaborate. Bosenkit said he favors packaging “that is sustainable but still allows brands to deliver their experience.” Among other measures, he suggested using FSC or other certified papers and keeping packaging lean. He also spoke about the value of sticking with the same packaging long-range, such as Tiffany has, by using its iconic blue packaging for more than 150 years. And who knew? The beautiful shade is Pantone 1837—the year the luxury jewelry company was founded. |
Some Booth Highlights from Luxe Pack Monaco 2011
At Albéa: José Filipe, Christine Chang, Elizabeth Forsyth & Jamie Matusow |
Daniel Park, Chang-Sok Song & colleague |
Joanna Sasso & Jeremy Cohen |
Rexam’s Christine Gichuki & Samira Chmiti |
Jonathan Gross, Derek Harvey & Jamie Moore |
Ireneusz Silwa & Brooks Markert |
SGD’s Peter Acerra & Sheherazade Chamlou |
Jay Gorga & Lucyna Silberstein |